In September 2020, Rolex announced its new models for the year. Everyone was eager to see what Rolex came up with for this year, and the expectations were high – considering their ordinary release date, which is usually held in April during the Basel event, was postponed due to Covid-19.

What prior to September 2020 was one of the more “boring” and not sought-after models, which also happens to be Rolex’s first entry-level watch for the Oyster Perpetual collection,  rapidly became one of the most popular models. All because of their new dial configurations which were presented on the Oyster Perpetual in the sizes 31mm (reference 277200), 36mm (reference 126000), and the all-new 41mm (reference 124300).

The new colors were very eye-catching and were instantly called “Stella” dials by collectors and enthusiasts. However, amongst their newly released dial configuration, one color stood out from the rest, and from day one was to be called the “Oyster Perpetual Tiffany Dial”. The Turquoise Blue dial, as Rolex presents the color,  is a bold color, and to be Rolex a very interesting choice, considering Rolex tends to be a very conservative brand.

The reason why the Turquoise Blue dial was to be called the “Tiffany dial” is because of the reminding colors of Tiffany’s logo, which actually leans more towards green than blue. However, what also has a major impact on the nickname is the fact that Rolex and Tiffany have a past collaboration together, just as Tiffanys & Co today has a collaboration with Patek Philippe watches. Read more about Rolex and Tiffany’s collaboration here. 

When Did The Hype Start? 

Shortly after the models were released, they were available with the Authorized Rolex retailers in-store. The Tiffany dial Oyster Perpetual, having the retail vs second-hand market value in mind, did not go for a huge premium. In September of 2020, the Oyster Perpetual 36mm reference 126000 with the Tiffany dial, was trading at €6500, whilst the retail price was around €5250. Of course, in terms of percentage, the premium for the previous, not sought-after model was huge, but in hindsight, the early days premium for the dial was slim to non, compared to today’s market.

When did the price escalate? 

The subject is very hard to have a defined answer on, as the first gray-market prices in some eyes already are ridiculous prices with a €1000 markup from the retail price. But to understand when the watches really started to become popular we have to understand how the deliveries for Rolex Authorized Dealers work.

A Rolex official dealer gets,  in January each year, an allocation list from Rolex stating how many pieces of each model they are going to receive throughout the year, without knowing when they will be delivered. For instance, if an Authorized Dealer is allocated 12 Daytona 116500LN each year, a safe assumption would be that a Dayonta will be delivered each month throughout the year – but it’s not certain. With this said, the store does know approximately how many pieces they will receive,  just not when exactly they will be delivered. The stores also have the possibility of requesting certain pieces each month from Rolex – in addition to its yearly allocation list, in order to meet their clients’ demands of certain specific timepieces, which can result in having more pieces of a specific model delivered than the was was originally planned.

With this said, if the Oyster Perpetual 41mm, reference 124300, was planned to be delivered 21 times, there are 7 different dial configurations that can end up with the store, a safe assumption would be that out of the 21 watches, 3 dial configurations would be the Turquoise blue “Tiffany” dial, which is 1/7 of the allocated watches, making it extremely hard for the official retailers/Rolex to meet the demand for this watch with this specific dial.

As soon as something starts to get more trendy and sought after, the demand for the model and specific configuration increases, and instantly it becomes almost impossible for the store to meet the demand with the limited supply they receive.

The Rolex “Tiffany” Oyster Perpetual reference 124300 in 41mm was discontinued in 2022, meaning that it only had a production time of two years (2020-2022). This makes it one of the shortest-produced Rolex watches in modern times.

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The new generation Oyster Perpetual is available in eight different dial configurations for the 36mm model, and seven different dial configurations for the 41mm model. The dials are different from each other, and there are three conservative dial colors, along with five or four (depending on which reference) bold dial colors to choose from.

Although these watches have the same recommended list price in an Authorized Rolex Store, the prices for the same watch, with different dials, can differ quite a lot on the second-hand market. We do know from Rolex that it is possible to order a spare dial to swap out your old if you wish, but with certain models, it can vary. In this article, we’ll cover which dials you can order for the Oyster Perpetual 36mm reference 126000, and the 41mm version reference 124300.

The Different Configurations

There are seven color configurations for the 36mm and 41mm Oyster Perpetual. 

1. Silver
2. Bright Blue 
3. Bright Black 
4. Coral Red 
5. Turquoise Blue 
6. Green 
7. Yellow 
8. Candy Pink (Only available on the 36mm and 31mm Oyster Perpetual) 

Exchange Your Dial 

Rolex offers the possibility to change your dial, in case you wish to go for another configuration that already exists for the model, or if your current dial gets damaged and needs to be replaced with a new, identical dial. This can be requested from any Authorized Dealer or Service Center, and typically they will assist you with ordering the dial and replace in their store (if they have a qualified watchmaker approved by Rolex), or else they will have the watch shipped to Rolex themselves, and let them to the dial swap/replacement. 

The price for any Oyster Perpetual dial, no matter which color configuration, is around €600 EUR, which can differ a bit depending on your location. In the €600 EUR cost, the work to change the dial is also included. Depending on which store performs the dial exchange, you might receive your old dial back for “free”, some stores have you pay 40% if you wish to keep your old dial, and some stores do not let you keep the old dial at all in order to prevent spare parts circulating on the second-hand market. 

Which Dials For The Oyster Perpetual Can you Order? 

You might think that you are able to order any dial type for your Oyster Perpetual, but the answer might come as a surprise. 
In theory, you are able to order any dial type from Rolex. This is made through a Rolex spare parts portal, which every AD has access to, but only the stores’ watchmakers are allowed to confirm the order. A store can also request an order directly from Rolex and have them exchange the dial if the store’s watchmakers are not certified to perform the dial exchange by Rolex themselves. A dial can have a designation by Rolex, which let the store know which dials are possible to order, and which are not. The following dials can be ordered in the Rolex portal, but some have a designation next to them. 

1. Silver 
2. Bright Blue
3. Bright Black
4. Coral Red (Exchange HQ) 
5. Turquoise Blue (Exchange HQ) 
6. Green (Exchange HQ) 
7. Yellow (Exchange HQ) 
8. Candy Pink (Exchange HQ) 

The first three more conservative dials, which also happen to be the cheapest out of all the different dial configurations on the second-hand market, can be ordered without any hesitations. However, for the rest of the bold dials, the text “Exchange HQ” can be found. 

Exchange HQ stands for Exchange Headquarters, which means that the watch needs to be sent to Rolex themselves in order to have the dial exchanged. It also means, that in order to order a dial that is marked with Exchange HQ, you must have a watch with a dial configuration that is marked as Exchange HQ. In other words, it is impossible for any Oyster Perpetual owners with a Silver, Bright Blue, or Bright Black dial to order a Turquoise dial. But for an Oyster Perpetual owner with a Turquoise dial, it is possible to order a Black dial. 

It might be a coincidence, but it is interesting that the more popular dial colors which are in bold colors, are not possible to order with an Oyster Perpetual that is in a more conservative dial. 

This also means, that if you are in the possession of a Green dialed Oyster Perpetual, which is marked Exchange HQ, you are in theory able to order a Turquoise, as both dials are marked as Exchange HQ. Despite this, it has been tested unsuccessfully (Specifically ordering the Turquoise dial for a dial exchange). 

The coincidence can be seen on many models, which have a certain dial type that is more popular on the second-hand market than others, such as the Daytona 116508, which also is marked as “Exchange HQ”, whilst a champagne or black dial color is not. The same goes for the Sky-Dweller in steel reference 326934 which is available in Black, White or Blue, with the “Exchange HQ” designation only found on the blue dial, which again happens to be the more popular dial configuration on the second-hand market. 

Conclusion 

Based on this, we can draw the conclusion that Rolex without a doubt knows which dials are more popular than others, but also that they actively try to prevent these dials to be ordered in order to create more models with the configuration on the market. Perhaps this is a very clever move from Rolex, as you in theory can exchange an “Exchange HQ” dial for a non-designated deal, thereby making it one less on the market. 

The post Rolex Oyster Perpetual – Which Dials Can You Order? [Guide & Answer] appeared first on Millenary Watches.

On the first of September 2020, Rolex, against all expectations, presented its new novelties. The updated Submariner collection was of course the star of the show, with its bigger case measuring 41mm, slimmer lugs, and more importantly the latest generation calibers. Caliber 3235 with a date and 3230 without a date.

The update to the Submariner line didn’t come as a huge surprise. In fact, it was expected. What did, however, come as a surprise was Rolex’s big changes to its Oyster Perpetual collection. Most notably the introduction of unorthodox (and very un-Rolex), new bright and bold dial colors.

Now available in 41mm

At Basel world in 2015 Rolex refreshed an old model, but with new dimensions. It was the Oyster Perpetual in a 39mm case. This watch fast became a favorite as the size of 39mm was more relevant according to the size ideals of today with a sportier size, compared to the classic 36mm size (although the 36mm size also lived on, and likely always will).

On September first, 2020, Rolex decided to discontinue this Oyster Perpetual, reference 114300, and replaced it with the new reference 124300. Surprisingly, this does, however, not measure 39mm, but rather 41mm.

Not only has the case size been increased by 2mm, but it also has slimmer lugs, a new updated movement caliber 3230, and lastly, features the Easylink extension system that gives the wearer the possibility to extend the length of the bracelet with 0,5mm.

The new release also involved upgrades and changes to the remaining collection of existing sizes, including 34mm, 36mm, and 31mm. All of these have been equipped with the new generation caliber, slimmer lugs but most importantly, a totally new wild and crazy selection of dial colors. These bold and bright colors were quickly referenced as “Stella dials” because of the similar colors to the original Stella dials that Rolex produced for the Day-Date and Oyster Date collections in the past. One particular dial that got a lot of attention is the dial that Rolex named “Turquoise blue”. This dial has a bright, fresh, and very uncommon-for-Rolex-watches, Turquoise color. 

What is a Tiffany Dial?

The audience was quick to reference this dial as the “Tiffany dial”, due to the color’s close similarity and reminiscence of the signature color of the famous jewelry company Tiffany & Co. The color is not identical, so how come many people immediately come to think about Tiffany? The answer is that it has to do with Rolex’s history.

You might ask yourself why this matters or what’s so special about it. Well, Tiffany & Co and Rolex have actually had a close relationship with each other. A relationship that dates all the way back to the late 1950s.

Tiffany & Co is well known for its high-end, elegant, luxurious jewelry and watches. With that said, a collaboration between these two giants in the luxury industry seems rather appropriate. To understand the context of the turquoise blue Oyster perpetual, we need to make a journey back in time.

Tiffany & Co is a brand that not is a re-seller of other brands, but is a brand on its own that designs and manufactures its own products – just like Rolex. When it comes to Tiffany, there are, however, exceptions to this rule, but there is a catch.

For this reason, Rolex provided Tiffany & Co with watches, on the dials of which Tiffany & Co in New York then printed its name. In later years Rolex decided to print the dials with Tiffany & Co directly in their own factory in Geneva, Switzerland prior to sending them to Tiffany & Co to be sold in their boutiques. This is the reason why you can, today, find vintage Rolex watches with the Tiffany & Co name printed on them.

This cooperation continued for decades but in the early 1990s, Rolex decided they did not want to continue to allow Tiffany & Co to have its name printed onto the dials of their watches. Furthermore, Rolex would not honor the warranty of watches stamped and sold from Tiffany & Co in case of a warranty repair. As previously mentioned, Tiffany & Co is a brand of its own that only sells its own products, or products carrying its name. As a result, when Rolex decided not to allow Tiffany to continue adding its name onto the dials of the watches, the partnership between these two iconic luxury brands stopped.

In recent years all models from Rolex which has the printing “Tiffany & Co” on the dial have steadily increased in value and become sought-after collector’s piece due to their rare nature since, as you can imagine, the production numbers of these pieces is substantially lower than the total production of the non-branded models (since the vast majority of Rolex watches were obviously not sold by Tiffany & Co considering Rolex’s huge retailer network).

Rolex Oyster Perpetual “Tiffany” Dial

The new dials released from Rolex, as we earlier mentioned, quickly acquired the nickname “Stella dials”, but more interestingly Rolex decided to go for a dial with a Turquoise dial which is a color that has great importance for Tiffany. Taking into consideration the mentioned past cooperation between the two companies makes this dial extra interesting. Not to mention the brave and unorthodox move from Rolex  –  one of the most orthodox watch brands in the world – to make a dial that really does stand out from their ordinary supply of dials.

What’s The Future For This Watch?

We strongly believe that this dial, due to its reminiscence of the Tiffany color, and with that said also Rolex’s historical relationship with Tiffany, could be a future collector’s piece or at least become an iconic classic with an important place in Rolex’s collection.

The Tiffany dial has a very light, innocent, and calm color which can be greatly appreciated both by him and her for various occasions. The market has proven to love the new release from Rolex and there’s no doubt that the Rolex Oyster Perpetual with the turquoise blue “Tiffany” dial will be highly sought after, and perhaps, end up like most Rolex professional watches today: long waiting time, huge popularity, limited supply with huge demand.

Conclusion

The new Oyster Perpetual lineup features an extremely bold selection of bright and colorful dials. The perhaps most exciting dial is what Rolex describes as “Turquoise Blue” and what quickly acquired the nickname “Tiffany Dial” because of the past history between the two companies. This dial, no matter if it’s in a 41mm, 36mm, or even 34 or 31mm Oyster Perpetual, gives it many of the prerequisites it needs to become a future classic.

Today, Rolex and Tiffany & Co have no relationship or cooperation, but this Oyster Perpetual turquoise dial work became a blast to the past and a reminder of their previous relationship for everyone who knows about how legendary this collaboration proved to be in hindsight.

What do you think about the new Oyster Perpetual and especially the “Tiffany” Dial? Is this a future classic?

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– The Oyster Perpetual is the cheapest brand-new Rolex you can get! 
– Actually, it’s the most affordable Rolex available on the market.

This conversation has for sure taken place many times. While the first sentence actually can be right, the second sentence is more accurate. Let us tell you why. 

What may come to mind to a lot of people when thinking about the Oyster Perpetual is an old vintage Oyster Perpetual, perhaps not very well-made, with lots of wear, rattle, and very well worn, with an affordable price tag. This idea can be right for older Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches but this image of the Oyster Perpetual has come to change in more recent times.

The Oyster Perpetual was first presented in 1953 and has been available in many different references, generations, and iterations over the decades. This includes dial colors, movements, case, and of course dials. With that said, the Oyster Perpetual has always been Rolex’s most basic and also most affordable entry-level watch. At its core, it is a very simple timepiece that only displays hours, minutes, and seconds with no other functions. Always made in full stainless steel.

With that said, it has also been and still is Rolex’s most affordable watch in its collection, looking at the retail price. But because of this, the Oyster Perpetual has also been the most affordable Rolex watch you can find on the secondhand market. This is true to this very day.

As a result of this, the Oyster Perpetual has, amongst some people, gotten a bad reputation. Okay, well not perhaps a bad reputation, but more correctly put, it has been a watch that many people neglect or simply ignore.

But over the years, it’s evident that Rolex has worked hard to lift the reputation of the Oyster Perpetual and make it more attractive. Both by improving its technology and build quality, but also by introducing new and fresh dial colors.

Ever since the release of the 36mm Oyster Perpetual reference 116000 back in 2008, the Oyster Perpetual entered a new era. The Oyster Perpetual suddenly became a watch to rely on. Its popularity slowly but surely started to grow.

It was now a watch that was extremely well built, equipped with the robust and reliable caliber 3130 with an updated Parachrom hairspring, which in 2012 was the same movement used by the updated Submariner No-Date reference 114060. The Oyster Perpetual in 36mm has always been the most affordable option when it comes to Rolex watches for men (buying new, based on the recommended retail price), but with that said, it shouldn’t limit you from getting one if you are considering it. And we’ll tell you why.

In September 2020, Rolex once again executed its strategy to further increase the popularity of the Oyster Perpetual.

A new update was presented for the Oyster Perpetual with a brand new in-house manufacturer movement caliber 3230 offering a whopping 70 hours of power reserve, a new-style bracelet with the Easylink comfort extension system, and a slightly smaller and refined case design. The all-new Rolex Oyster Perpetual in 36mm reference 126000 is without a doubt, the most affordable Rolex available seen from the recommended retail price, but with no compromises.

The Oyster Perpetual is 100m water-resistant, which is enough for swimming, snorkeling, and performing other types of water activities. After all, it is an Oyster and features Rolex’s Oyster for water-resistant properties such as a screw-down crown and the Oyster case with a screw-down case back.

It now features a 70 hours power reserve, new bold and colorful dial configurations, and a bracelet, that like many other professional models, is equipped with an Easylink which can extend the length of the bracelet by 0,5mm. The Oyster Perpetual 36mm reference 126000 is the best Oyster Perpetual (in a more traditional size) ever made.

The movement used in the Oyster Perpetual is the same as the No-Date Submariner, which we know is an extremely durable watch with a movement indifferent from a workhorse – so there’s not much to argue about this. Reference 126000 now also offers the Easylink extension which was highly demanded by the market in the previous reference 116000. In fact, some owners even modified the previous reference 116000 with an Easylink extension from an Explorer 1 reference 214270. But with the latest generation, this modification is no longer needed.

What can be said about the Oyster Perpetual is that the watch is too minimalistic, and does not offer a true tool-watch experience with mechanical or visual complications such as a rotating bezel, a GMT hand, or lug holes. But it depends on what you are looking for.

Perhaps, the idea of purchasing an Oyster Perpetual is perfect if that’s what you are looking for. However, with the new unorthodox dial alternatives available, the watch no longer appears to be boring in any way but actually the opposite. Coral red, Turquoise Blue, Yellow, Green, or Candy Pink are perhaps the most protruding dial configurations to choose from, but if this not is what you are looking for, there are more conservative dials such as Black, Bright Blue, or Silver with sunburst finish.

With this said, the new Oyster Perpetual in 36mm, which is seen as a classic size suitable for both him and her, truly is a great watch. It features Rolex’s latest generation caliber 3230, is extremely well-built and solid, and will hold up for generations to come. Yes, it is simple and classic, but with the new fun and bright dial colors to choose from, it’s certainly not boring.

And if “boring”, or more correctly “classic” is what you are looking for, the Oyster Perpetual offers that too. And it does so whilst it is priced as the most affordable watch in Rolex’s current collection.

The post Rolex Oyster Perpetual – The Most Affordable Rolex appeared first on Millenary Watches.

It’s now official! Not unsurprisingly, Rolex has presented an update to its Oyster Perpetual collection. Rolex has officially discontinued the Oyster Perpetual 39mm and gone all-in on 41mm. With that said, Rolex has now presented the Oyster Perpetual 41mm reference 124300 with a ton of new bright and bold dial colors! This new movement features the new generation caliber and also a long-requested upgrade to the clasp to feature the Easylink extension system! To mark this, Rolex has slightly upgraded the design and fitted it with the in-house caliber 3232.

When Baselworld 2020 was officially canceled, many people thought we would get no new watches from Rolex this year. Thankfully, this proved to be wrong. On the 1st of September, Rolex has treated us with a number of watches and news. Including Oyster Perpetual 41.

New Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41MM 124300

The predecessor 114300 is now officially discontinued and has been replaced by the new reference 124300. Apart from only updating the design, Rolex also upped the size from 39mm to 41mm.

All of the official Rolex retailers we have spoken with have told us that during 2020, they practically received no Oyster Perpetual 39 114300. Some have received only one piece, whilst others have gotten just a few pieces. This can be further confirmed by the fact that what is normally a watch that can be found in essentially all AD windows, has been nowhere to be found for the most part during 2020.

The Oyster Perpetual 39 has not been a “waitlist” watch that is hard to get, but in recent times, they have become more and more difficult to find. This is not necessarily because the demand for them has increased, but rather that the supply has more or less come to a full halt.

With that said,  this has been an indication that Rolex has been up to something with the Oyster Perpetual 39, and now, it has been officially confirmed. Rolex has been working on a new generation Oyster Perpetual. Of course with the new generation movement 3230.

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 114300 was originally presented in 2015. More recently, in 2018, Rolex also presented two new colors for the model – black and white. But this watch has, since its launch been equipped with the 3130 calibers, and with Rolex’s continuous pursuit of introducing the new “32” calibers into all its model lines (in 2019, it was the GMT-Master II with the caliber 3285), 2020 is the year when it is the OP 39’s time to get an upgrade.

Rolex presents the new Oyster Perpetual 39 with the new reference 124300, which unsurprisingly follows the same format for the new reference number by replacing the 11 in the beginning with a 12 to indicate the latest generation.

Since Rolex is about evolution rather than revolution, the updates and changes are not huge. But the biggest upgrade is indeed the new caliber which boasts a 70-hour power reserve as opposed to the previous 48 hours.

The upgrade of this model was due, so it is nice to see a substantially improved technical aspect of this watch. The Oyster Perpetual is a true classic that doesn’t need a whole lot of visual changes or refinements, so Rolex has chosen to play it safe.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41MM 124300 dial colors

Specifications

• Movement: Rolex caliber 3230
• Diameter: Caliber 3232
• Water resistance:  100 meters / 330 feet
• Power reserve: 70 hours
• Available dial colors:
• Diameter: 41mm
• Bracelet: Easylink extension system

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Rolex Oyster is a  term that is closely associated with the Rolex brand.

Recognized as one of the most luxurious and prestigious watch brands in the world, no matter if you ask someone who knows watches well, or someone who doesn’t know much about them, most people know about Rolex.

Rolex is a brand that satisfies with nothing but perfection, and continues to develop and innovate its products in order to become more reliable, higher quality, and more accurate.

One innovation that Rolex has come up with is the ”Oyster”.

You can find the small words ”Oyster Perpetual” on the dial

Two small words, but words that actually have great importance for Rolex watches.

In this article, we explain the term Rolex Oyster Perpetual, what it means, and how it came about.

What is Rolex Oyster Perpetual?

On the dials of almost all Rolex watches, you’ll find these words. The term refers to the ”Oyster case” that Rolex uses for most of its watches. The Oyster case is a symbol of waterproofness and symbolizes an important milestone in Rolex’s and watchmaking’s history. As you know, even just a tiny bit of water is dangerous for a watch movement, and can completely destroy a watch. Thanks to the new Oyster case innovation, Rolex now offers watches that keep the movement safe from any dust or water.

The legend about the name…

There is a legend about how the Rolex Oyster name came about. The legend has it that the name came about when Hans Wilsdorf, one night at a dinner party, struggled to open up an oyster.

The tight closure of the Oyster’s shell can, of course, be symbolic of the watertight seals that are used in the Rolex Oysters, and can also refer to the aquatic habitat that Oysters have, symbolic of Rolex Oyster’s ability to withstand water.

The Rolex Oyster case

The Oyster case was invented by Rolex in 1926 and came to become the world’s first waterproof case for a wristwatch thanks to the patented concept of screwing down the bezel as well as the case back and the winding crown against the middle case. The first Rolex to feature this case structure was of course named “Oyster”.

In Rolex’s own words, the Oyster case is a symbol of robustness and waterproofness. The Oyster case is used for all Rolex watches that are water-resistant up to 100 meters. This means that the Cellini range of watches does not use the Oyster case – which of course may not be a surprise considering that is a very slimmed dress watch.

Unlike what many people believe, Rolex ”Oyster” is not a model itself, but rather, as mentioned, a case structure that is meant to keep the movement safe from water.

For example, you can find ”Oyster Perpetual” on the dial of a Rolex Datejust, but the model is ”Datejust”.

The Rolex Oyster case guarantees water resistance to a depth of at least 100 meters (330 feet), and up to 3,900 meters (12,800 feet) for the Rolex Deepsea extreme divers’ watch.

The Oysters have a solid middle case which is stamped and machined out of a solid block of either Oystersteel, 18 ct gold, or platinum (depending on the watch model).

This solid middle case works as the backbone for all of the other parts and ensures that these are securely fitted. Just because a Rolex has an Oyster case, however, doesn’t mean that all of these cases are identical in design. Some cases, for example, feature crown guards, whilst some cases are much thinner.

But what they have in common is the way the cases are assembled to allow for water resistance.

To ensure water resistance, the case back of the Oyster watches is screwed down to the case and demands a special tool exclusive to authorized Rolex watchmakers, so only they can access the movement. The first Oysters also had screw down on the front of the case to ensure water resistance. This can be seen in the flutings of the bezel on the Oyster watch above. Today, the front is not screwed to the case anymore, however, Rolex still makes fluted bezels for their Datejust model, all crafted in solid 18K gold, which can be seen as a nod to the past, apart from looking really good.

The History Of The Rolex Oyster Case

The Rolex Oyster case actually has an interesting history.

Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, did not actually invent the Oyster concept in its full. Instead, it is based on a patent initially filed by Paul Perregaux and Georges Peret in 1925.  Wilsdorf purchased all rights to the patent from them When he saw their design, and then used elements of their screw-down crown design in his own Oyster case. The following year, he came to register his own Oyster Case innovation. In other words, while Rolex is usually credited for making the world’s first water-resistant case for a wristwatch, the whole truth is actually that the original idea and design for a water-resistant case belongs to Perregaux and Peret.

The crown of the Oyster design

The crown plays a crucial part in the Oyster design since this is a dangerous point that can risk leaking water if not secured properly, as it is a direct channel straight to the movement of the watch.

Rolex uses either Triplock or Twinlock for its Oyster case watches, which means either a two-point seal or a three-point seal for water protection.

The crown itself is a technical masterpiece that shouldn’t be underrated. The winding crown of Rolex watches is made up of about 10 parts and is screwed hermetically onto the watch case.

The Rolex Oyster Case: tried and true

After Hans Wilsdorf invented the Rolex Oyster, he wanted to prove the watch’s great ability to withstand water to the public.

As such, in 1927, the English swimmer Mercedes Gleitze wore an Oyster watch around her neck while swimming across the English Channel. Gleitze swam for over 10 hours, and during the whole swim, the Oyster watch remained in full function and water-sealed condition

This way of testing Rolex watches out in the field to prove their robustness in reliability came to become the start of a central part of Rolex’s marketing strategy, as they after this event were used on Mount Everest, by James Cameron, and many more, during demanding adventures.

Rolex Oyster terms

Rolex does not only use the term ”Oyster” for its case.

Rolex also uses the term for many other things related to its watches to prove their robustness and powerful characteristics.

Some examples are:

• Oyster bracelet
• Oystersteel
• Oysterdate
• Oysterflex
• Oysterquartz
• Oysterlock

The Oyster bracelet is the sporty and robust three-link bracelet that you primarily see on the Professional models such as the Submariner, Sea-Dweller, and a few other models of course.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual – what does it mean?

Apart from the term Rolex Oyster, you’ve probably also heard the term Oyster Perpetual.

As you know, the Rolex Oyster came in 1926. The Perpetual part was actually added in 1933 when Rolex rolled out the first reliable self-winding watch, named the Oyster Perpetual. 

The word perpetual, as you know, means that it is never-ending, and goes on and on. This refers to the automatic movement that -if you wear it, will continue to tick year after year.

Now, what can be a bit confusing is that, unlike the term ”Oyster”, Rolex actually makes a model called ”Oyster Perpetual”.

This can particularly be confusing since many of the Rolex watches today feature the text ”Oyster Perpetual” on the dial, even though the model of that watch is not an Oyster perpetual.

The model Oyster Perpetual is a standard classic three-hand watch that has no other functions, and which is available with an array of different dial colors as well as in a number of different sizes.

There you have it! Now you know what the term Rolex Oyster means, as well as what the term Rolex Oyster Perpetual means!

Thanks for reading!

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Rolex has officially introduced a new generation of Oyster Perpetual 36 watches, using the reference 126000. This new reference replaces the predecessor 116000 and brings in a number of new changes. Most notably, some very funky and colorful dials.

For the presentation of Rolex’s novelties for 2020, the updates to the Submariner collection were what everyone was focusing on. But  Rolex took everyone by surprise when they presented some very bright and daring dial colors for the Oyster Perpetual line – apart from only upgrading them with the latest generation caliber and a few other tweaks.

So what is the big deal about the new Oyster Perpetual 36 126000? An upgraded movement and an Easylink system, and that’s it?

Well, there’s more to it than that.

If there is one brand that is known for being conservative, it is Rolex. The brand is known for evolution, not revolution, and that generally means small, consistent upgrades and tweaks in regards to quality, design, and performance.

With that in mind, it becomes extra special and significant when Rolex dares to go outside the box and do something completely unexpected. The new Oyster perpetual 126000 is a perfect example of that.

New Rolex Oyster Perpetual 126000

For 2020, Rolex has (unsurprisingly) upgraded and revised the Oyster Perpetual 36. The update to the Oyster Perpetual line didn’t come as a surprise in Rolex’s consistent work of upgrading its whole collection with the latest generation caliber.

The new Oyster Perpetual 36 is very familiar to the predecessor, apart from some of the dial colors, but in terms of core design, they stay true to the original. Rolex has reworked and refined the case slightly in traditional Rolex fashion. The untrained eye will likely not notice these changes, but the lugs have been made slightly slimmer and elegant. Its size remains the same, at the classic 36mm, which is suitable both for men and women. Although, the new Oyster Perpetual 41 reference 124300 that was also presented will be seen as a men’s watch, and the 36mm more of a ladies size when they are compared side-by-side.

However, with that said, 36mm has always been the classic size of a Rolex, and today, it is considered a unisex size which is popular both amongst men and women.

Another big improvement is the fact that the bracelet is now equipped with Rolex’s Easylink comfort extension system. This is something that the market had requested for a long time seeing the fact that the predecessor did not have it. Because of this, some owners have actually modified their watches by sourcing the Easylink separately and then modifying their clasp by adding it.

But with the new 126000, that is no longer necessary as the Easylink is already integrated.

The new generation caliber

If you ask Rolex, the most significant upgrade to the 126000 is the fact that it is now equipped with the latest generation caliber. The previous movement used was the caliber 3130, and whilst that is a great movement that has proven to be a reliable workhorse, the new movement features a number of improvements both in terms of performance but also in reliability and durability.

The Caliber 3230 is a movement developed and manufactured in-house entirely by Rolex. It has an accuracy of -2/+2 sec/day and displays seconds, minutes, and hours.

In terms of technology, the movement uses a Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring. The power-reserve has increased substantially compared to the predecessor, now boasting an impressive 70 hours.

Rolex and colorful dials

Of course, the daring new dial colors of the Oyster perpetual is what stands out the most. What is interesting however is that the Oyster Perpetual is and always has been an entry-level watch. Yes, it has been popular, but for the most part, it’s a watch that most people haven’t considered.

Rolex was of course fully aware of this, and you could imagine that one day, they sat in a meeting saying “how can we revive the Oyster Perpetual and make it a watch that people will aspire to own?” The answer to this question proved to be by making something dramatic and drastic. By equipping them with dial colors that you simply cannot miss.

The new Oyster Perpetual 36 126000 is available with both classic and traditional dial colors that you associate Rolex with, including black, silver, and “bright blue”. The dials are certainly beautiful in their own right, but they don’t stand out of the ordinary. What does, stand out of the ordinary, however, are the “candy pink”, turquoise blue”, “green”, “yellow”, and “coral red” dials, which the Oyster Perpetual is now available with.

The colors of these are not toned down and discreet, but rather, they are bright and vibrant, and can be seen from across the room.

Interestingly enough, there is somewhat of a backstory to these dials which helps make them even more interesting.

Believe it or not, but Rolex has actually had a history of making bright and colorful dials. These are today known as “Stella dials”. Whilst the colorful dials of the Oyster Perpetual 36s are not Stella dials, they do remind of a very interesting part of Rolex’s history. It was during the  1970s and 1980s that Rolex presented these dials, which were lacquered with hard enamel. The colors made at the time were oxblood, red, orange, blue, green, turquoise, peach, salmon, pink, purple, and yellow. And what is particularly interesting is that the colors used in the new Oyster Perpetual are very similar to the colors used for the Stella dials, interestingly enough.

The “Stella dials” were only available in full gold.

These Stella dials were only available in a few select markets, notably the Middle East and Asia, but these dials did not prove to be a huge success. In fact, at a time when people wanted more conservative and classic dials in watches like the Day-Date, the Stella dials became mostly unsold.

However, now, only some 40 – 50 years later, a lot has changed to the market, society, and the Rolex clientele, and the new colorful dials of the 126000 have proven to be extremely well-received, although some argue that they are not suitable for a conservative brand like Rolex. Plus, the colorful, Stella-inspired dials are now available in full-steel watches, which is a first.

The good news is that if you do like the new Oyster Perpetual 36 but are more conservative,  there are dial options for you too. With that said, with the discontinuation of the predecessor, a few dials have been discontinued from the model, including “White grape”, “red grape”, and of course the white dial, to mention a few.

Oyster Perpetual 36 126000 specifications

• Diameter: 36mm
• Bracelet: Oyster bracelet with folding clasp and now also Easylink extension system
• Movement: Caliber 3230
• Power reserve: 70 hours
• Lug width: 20mm
• Water-resistance: 100M
• Jewels: 31
• Frequency: 28800 bph

The post News! Rolex Presents Oyster Perpetual 36 126000 appeared first on Millenary Watches.

2020 proved to be a big year for the Oyster Perpetual collection. Most notably, the collection was presented with a number of new bright and bold dial colors. Some may think that this was the only change to the Oyster Perpetual, but if you ask Rolex, the colors were not the biggest news. The internal upgrade, which is the movement, was the biggest change to this watch. Today, the Oyster Perpetual 36 is powered by the latest generation Rolex caliber.

The more you read about the new Oyster Perpetual 36mm, reference 126000, you will soon realize that not only are there new colorful dial configurations, but also a new movement, a slimmer case, and a small yet very important update to the bracelet that the market had been requesting for years.

Since the previous Oyster Perpetual in 36mm, reference 116000, was introduced in Basel 2008 it had been around for a while. Over the course of its production period, Rolex had also introduced (and discontinued) a number of different dials.

However, in Basel 2018 Rolex presented an updated dial configuration for the reference with a new layout of the dial. The new dial featured double indexes at the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock position. With this update, Rolex only presented two new dials: black and white. But now in 2020, these have been discontinued. With this in mind, it is, therefore, safe to say that these two particular dial configurations were produced for a short period of time (at least from a Rolex perspective).

In the eye of many Rolex collectors and enthusiasts, special, unique, or watches with a short production period might, in the future, prove to be future classics and highly collectible. In this article, we will compare the two Oyster Perpetual 36 references against each other – 116000 VS 126000. And perhaps, after reading this, the decision of either picking up the older reference or the brand new might be a bit easier for you.

Reference 116000

This reference 116000 was first presented at the Basel watch fair in 2008. For the first time in a long time, Rolex decided to update the Oyster Perpetual 36 by improving it with its latest technology and refining its design. The at-the-time new model featured 904L steel and was equipped with a rehaut along with a more solid bracelet and well-built bracelet, but also the new maxi-case.

The watch suddenly became a lot more robust, but still with the classic Oyster Perpetual DNA with its simple and elegant look as a time-only watch that only displays hours, minutes, and seconds.

The 116000 features the Rolex caliber 3130, which is the movement used in the Rolex Submariner no-date reference 114060, with an upgraded Parachrom hairspring that offers greater resistance to temperature variations and shocks. The movement is capable of running 48 hours when fully wound, which is fairly good and generally more than enough, especially if you wear the watch on a daily basis. In 2018 at Basel Rolex, as mentioned, announced an updated dial configuration for the lineup featuring double indexes at the 3,6 and 9 o’clock position.

The colors black and white were also added which is quite interesting, as they haven’t been available for the model previously. The black and white dials were only produced for two years since they were announced discontinued when the new reference 126000 was introduced on September fist 2020. As a matter of fact, if you are looking to have a white dial with double indexes, the only choice from Rolex’s all previous and present Oyster Perpetuals in 36mm is the reference 116000.

This does of course mean that the production time of only two years makes this reference with the dial configuration either in white or black rather unique and rare – at least compared to the other dials. This is something that often is greatly appreciated by collectors as the production numbers are naturally lower, making them potentially more sought-after and collectible in the future.

However, what often is brought up when talking about reference 116000 is the lack of the Easylink extension system. If you have ever been in a warm climate with this watch, it doesn’t take long until you realize that the size of your wrist changes with temperature changes. A bracelet that might suit your wrist perfectly in normal temperatures, may sit extremely tight on the wrist in warmer climates.

Unfortunately, as the bracelet of the 116000 does not come with an easy-link extension from the factory the only way to adjust the length of the bracelet is if you were to bring tools with you, for either removing links or adjusting the micro-adjustment inside the clasp. But this is of course not very practical. Fortunately, however, this issue can easily be resolved by adding an Easylink (originally from the Explorer 1, reference 214270 bracelet) with the part number B32-20193-D1. And this is a modification that some owners have done to their watch.

Reference 126000

The new Oyster Perpetual 36mm was presented by Rolex on the first of September 2020. The unorthodox dial configurations is quite a brave move by Rolex, which very rarely steps outside their box and dares to do something different. Bear in mind, Rolex is about evolution, not revolution. But there are exceptions. Like the colorful dials of the new Oyster Perpetual 36. The new colorful dials will definitely put a smile on your face, but if you are looking to purchase the white dial Rolex no longer offers this configuration anymore.

Fortunately, there are more discreet dial colors to choose from, for those who prefer. This includes silver, black, and blue.

This is of course a big shock for most of us, as the white dial specifically was just recently introduced in the Oyster Perpetual lineup. However, the new dial configurations which are extremely unique and reminiscent of the vintage Rolex Stella dials, have a unique and distinct look.

Besides the new dial configurations, the previous Maxi-case which the previous reference 116000 had is now updated with slimmer lugs, which for many is a big improvement. Not only are the lugs slimmer, but the case is also equipped with a brand new movement, Rolex in-house manufacturer movement caliber 3230, which now boasts an impressive 70 hours power reserve. The previous issue with the non-existing easy-link extension has also been resolved.

The bracelet for the new Oyster Perpetual now has the Easylink extension system which offers the possibility to increase the size of the bracelet by 0,5mm which is a fantastic feature in warmer climates where you shift from being inside a cooled room with AC and going out in the heat.

Which One To Purchase?

With all of this said, it might be difficult to decide, or perhaps in some cases easy. If you are looking for a more casual and discrete dial, like the white, the only option you are left with is to go with the only-two-year-production-Oyster Perpetual reference 116000.

The lack of an easy-link might bother you, but as earlier mentioned it’s a quick-fix with all original Rolex products. What’s left to ask yourself is if you want a slimmer case and if a 48 power reserve instead of 70 is a big deal for you. However, if you find any of the dial configurations of the new Oyster Perpetual, the new 126000 is in fact the superior watch due to its improved specifications and importance. All of the other features and visual tweaks are just binary, and may not even be noticeable to the untrained eye.

The purpose of a new generation watch is of course to make it better, and that is exactly what the reference 126000 is, at least on paper.

This does of course not mean that the previous caliber 3130 is bad in any way, as it was used for a long time and is a tried and true movement that is a workhorse. It’s a reliable movement featuring small improvements such as a Parachrome hairspring.

Oyster Perpetual 36 116000 VS 126000

Reference 116000:                                                                           Reference 126000:
Caliber: 3130.                                                                                    Caliber: 3230.
Power Reserve: 48 hours.                                                            Power Reserve: 70 hours.
Case: Maxi Case.                                                                              Case: Maxi case with slimmer lugs.
Easy-Link: No, but can be modified.                                       Easy-Link: Yes.
Great Watch: Yes!                                                                            Great Watch: Yes!

Question!

Which of these references would you go for?

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