Rolex is unarguably the most famous luxury watch brand, associated with prestige, top quality, and extreme precision. If you ask people to mention luxury watch brands, you’ll find that most people will instantly think of Rolex.

Over its roughly 100-year old history, Rolex has established itself as the ultimate luxury watch brand, incomparable to its competitors. Over the years, Rolex has also released a number of iconic models that have almost become the definition of a watch made for respective fields.

The Rolex Submariner is certainly one of those.

The Rolex Submariner is unarguably the most iconic watch of Rolex, with distinct shapes and a design that has become the definition of a diver watch.

Rolex has become the leader in dive watches with its Submariner models, and many other brands have picked up because of the immense success that the Rolex Submariner has.

The Rolex Submariner is a diver’s watch, originally (and technically still) made for divers to use as a tool while diving. But the fact is that the vast majority of people who buy the Rolex Submariner never use it to go diving. While some people do, the majority are attracted by its iconic design, its beautiful shapes, and its distinct look. 

But over the years, the Rolex Submariner has changed quite a lot in design. The Submariner model was first showcased at the Basel Watch Fair in 1954. and first came into production in 1953, and this time has allowed Rolex to constantly improve and innovate the Rolex Submariner over the years, leaving us with the Submariner design and model that we have today.

The Submariner has undergone a number of aesthetical changes over the more than the 50-year period it has been in production, but maybe most important is the technical innovation that has been done to the watch, with new movements,  new bezel function, improved water resistance, and more. Over the course of the Submariner’s production, Rolex has introduced countless reference numbers, and if you are planning to buy a Rolex Submariner, it can be worth knowing that there is actually a whole spectrum of Submariner models out there that may vary slightly or quite substantially from the previous model.

Some of the older Submariner models have become extremely sought-after collector’s items, while others have not quite become as popular. But one thing is certain, and that is that the Rolex Submariner is one of the Rolex watches that hold their value the best, and certain reference numbers, in particular, have skyrocketed in price immensely.

In this article, we’ll share a complete list of Rolex Submariner models and reference numbers, we’ll introduce you to them and tell you what makes them different from the previous and the following Submariner models.

You’ll also get a deeper introduction to the history of the Rolex Submariner and a little bit about what makes it unique.

Introduction to the Rolex Submariner

The Rolex Submariner is distinctive in design, and even those who know little about watches are often able to point out the iconic design of the Submariner.

As mentioned, since the Submariner has been in production for more than 50 years now, the design has evolved, however, you can very much recognize the iconic design that the modern Rolex Submariner has, with the original and first Rolex Submariner.

Today, the modern Submariner is distinctive by its “cathedral” or “Mercedes” hands, featuring a rounded piece near the point of the hand. On the flip side, the early Submariner models didn’t have this type of hands, instead, they have plain pencil hands.

The modern watch has the text ”Submariner” on the dial, but this has not always been the case. The modern Submariner is recognized by its unidirectional Cerachrom bezel which allows you to track immersion time, and this is the main feature of the watch that makes it a diver’s watch, including the fact that it is rugged and waterproof down to a great depth.

The modern Rolex Submariner is powered by the reliable and high-precision in-house Rolex caliber 3130, and this is obviously something that hasn’t been the case all the way since the beginning of Submariner production.

The watch has a perpetual rotor and is part of Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual self-winding watches line.

Today, the Rolex Submariner is available in stainless steel, two-tone (gold and steel), and gold. Originally, the Rolex Submariner was only available in stainless steel, because frankly, divers didn’t wear full-gold watches while diving, and they didn’t see any point in doing so either.

Due to the importance that the Rolex Submariner has played in the history and innovation of watch designs, in particular, dive watches, if you ask essentially any watch collector, you’ll find that keeping one such in their collection is always a must. This is because the model has played such importance not just in dive watches but also in the watch industry as a whole.

In the luxury watch market, the popularity of a brand and a model can be measured in the number of fake watches that are made as replicas of a particular model, and the fact is that the Rolex Submariner is the most replicated luxury watch in the world. While this is anything than positive, it says something about the immense popularity of the Submariner.

The beginning of the Rolex Submariner

The fact is that even before the introduction of the Rolex Submariner, there were predecessors in the Rolex collection. These were water-resistant watches that were made in the early 1930s, but they were not complete tools for divers.

Eventually, Rolex came to start a partnership with Panerai which sold diving equipment and Rolex watches. Panerai Radiomir was combined with Oyster-shaped cases with caliber movement provided by Rolex. 

One of Hans Wilsdorf’s employees, Jeanneret came up with the idea of making an entirely new division of Rolex which would make sports watches, including a diver’s watch. Since Wilsdorf was known for listening to his employees, he agreed with the idea and came up with the idea of a self-winding movement as well as a screw-down crown.

Eventually, Jeanneret developed a friendship with Jacques Cousteau, a famous explorer, and diver. The result of this relationship was that he tried to convince Rolex to make a watch specially designed for professional divers. Since Costeau was a valuable resource in the development of a professional diver’s watch who knows the needs and demands of a professional diver, the Submariner was developed.

It is not clear whether the first Rolex Submariner had the reference 6204 or 6205. It’s not clear which of these came first, because to a large extent, they’re identical.

 As for the first models, you won’t find the name ”Submariner” on the dial. Some 6204 do, however, have the Submariner text printed below the center pinion, while others don’t, and it is believed that the reason why some of the watches feature the Submariner name and others don’t is that Rolex faced unexpected trademark issues with the ”Submariner” name.

Maybe one of the most important reasons for the Submariner’s success is not because of its rotatable bezel or its high-quality movement – eventless things have probably been contributing factors as well, however, the most important factor is probably due to the fact that the Rolex Submariner is a universal timeless icon which features a design that is just as relevant today as 50 years ago, and it is also a watch which can be used for many different occasions as it is, despite being a diver’s watch, a universal watch. While the model has changed since it was first released, the distinct design and looks of the watch remain the same, and this is something that contributes to its immense popularity, as well as its heritage.

While most Submariner watches will never touch the ocean, we cannot forget the technical innovations and improvements that made the Rolex Submariner a tool used by the most demanding divers.

The Rolex Submariner became, upon its launch an important tool watch, made for a specific purpose, and featuring helpful characteristics and functions.

As the model was launched, the Submariner was popular among divers and oceanographers. 

First of all, we have the rotating bezel, which nowadays is unidirectional to ensure that the time can only be less, and thus making sure that the diver doesn’t run out of oxygen while underwater since this is the main usage area for the Submariner’s rotating bezel.

Furthermore, the flip-lock clasp of the Submariner was specifically built to be handled with neoprene gloves, allowing for easy operation. From having no crown guards, eventually, the Submariner came to include crown guards to protect the crown of the watch from being damaged.

Since diving at great depths results in great pressure, a demand for a diver’s watch with greater waterproofness eventually came around.

As a result, Rolex introduced the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller Submariner 2000. This model was the first edition of what is today known as the Sea-Dweller (and which is still in production), and this featured a 610m/2000 feet water resistance as it was launched in 1967. The Sea-Dweller was built on the already existing Submariner model and made for Comex S.A. industrial deep-sea diving company. Rolex achieved increased water resistance by making the crystal thicker. The watch got the reference 1665.

Rolex’s Submariner model also featured more iconic traits, including the ”cyclops” on the date, which works as a magnifying for improved legibility, especially underwater, and luminous markers to allow checking the time underwater.

Innovations of the modern Rolex Submariner

It’s safe to say that the Rolex Submariner has been subject to plenty of innovations, changes, and improvements over the years which ultimately has improved the watch in a number of areas.

In more recent years, from the 1970s and beyond, Rolex started making the Submariners in yellow gold or two-tone. Furthermore, Rolex also introduced new colored dials as opposed to the black dial they had used since the beginning.  Rolex introduced in 2004 the 16610LV with a distinct green bezel to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Submariner. 

Now, Rolex has also started using their 904L steel made in their foundry, and the fact that Rolex goes so above and beyond and makes its own steel since “nothing else is good enough” is proof of Rolex’s great attention to detail and mindset of never compromising. The 904L steel is corrosion-resistant and extremely hard, and this makes it the perfect steel for a diver’s watch.

Today, the Rolex Submariner is unarguably the most hyped and popular model of Rolex, but the Submariner hasn’t always had the huge popularity that it has today. In fact, it wouldn’t take until the 1960s when the popularity of the Submariner would come to surge when the Rolex Submariner was featured in several James Bond films, on his very own wrist. The Submariner was actually also used in a number of underwater scenes which proved that the watch was extremely durable for the greatest of spies and his missions, but also classy for a suit and tie – something that continues to remain the case to this day.

Even though many different Submariner watches have been manufactured over the years, there are two Submariners, the 5512 and 5513 which are very similar to each other that are considered to be the most iconic vintage Submariners. The reason is that these watches have been the Submariner watches that have been produced for the longest time, and have thus become classics.

Now, without further ado,  let’s look at our complete list of Rolex Submariner models.

Rolex Submariner reference numbers

Rolex Submariner reference number 6204

This may or may not be the first Rolex Submariner. The reason is that it is unclear whether the 6204 or 6205 came first but it’s safe to say that this is one of the earliest Submariners and the starting point for a model that would see immense success and become the most popular and well-known watch model in the world.

The 6204 was in production between 1953 and 1955.

This Submariner reference looks a bit different from what you’re used to when you think Rolex Submariner, but have in mind that more than 60 years have passed since.

The 6204 examples can vary from each other, so don’t be surprised if you find Submariner 6204s that have different visual appearances. For example, the text on the dial may vary, the type of dial may vary (for example honeycomb dial or regular matte dial, and so on.

The Submariner 6204 has pencil hands unlike the ”Mercedes hands” you’re used to today, and on most of the watches, it has the text ”Rolex Oyster Perpetual: Submariner” (but this may also vary between watches. The watch has a gilt dial, which means that all the text is made in a yellowish/goldish color. It is thought that Jaques Cousteau wore this model.

Rolex Submariner Reference number 6200

This Submariner was in production between 1953 and 1954, in other words just one year. 

This Submariner used the old-style bubble back cal.A296/775 movement as well as the old non-dash bezel insert. It also featured a ”big crown” of 8mm without crown guards.

It is said that Hans Wilsdorf thought that this Submariner was unusually thick-cased for the market and retailers to like it. As such, the Submariners 6204 & 6205 were introduced to replace the 6200 during Basel in 1954.

Rolex Submariner Reference number 6205

This Rolex Submariner was in production between 1953 and 1955. The watch is essentially the same as the 6204, but the only difference is that the watch is slightly bigger and has a different crown on the dial.

The 6204 features the same movement as the 6204 and the water profess of the watch is the same. The problem, however, was that these watches weren’t very waterproof since the technology for making waterproof watches was very new, and Rolex was very much still developing and experimenting. As such, unlike now, Rolex didn’t hesitate to discontinue models and introduce new ones as soon as they found a new improvement, etc. This is also why you’ll find considerably more Submariner models in the early days compared to more recent times when everything has been refined to perfection.

Rolex Submariner reference number 6536 and 6538

The Rolex Submariner 6536 and 6538 were in production between 1955 and 1959.

The reason why we list them together is that of the fact that both of these watches featured a new, revolutionary movement, the Rolex Caliber 1030 which could rotate in both directions.

As such, this movement’s efficiency and power generation were significantly improved.

While the 6536 and 6538 are similar, there are a few differences between them. The 6536 has thinner lugs and a smaller crown. This was only waterproof to 100m, but the 6538, on the other wand, was waterproof down to 200 meters.

An interesting thing to point out at this time is that Rolex used all its parts. Therefore, you can see that Rolex has, in some cases, using the 6538 as a 6536.

Rolex Submariner reference number 6538

This Rolex Submariner was in production between 1956 and 1959.

The watch featured a non-chronometer movement with two lines on the dial – meters/feet, and ”Submariner”

The rotating bezel has a red triangle at 12 o’clock to improve legibility and a dash index of 15 minutes. In one way, the 6538 Submariner has become one of the most iconic vintage Submariners, because it was this watch that James Bond used in several films, and Bond wearing the Submariner is said to have had a huge impact on the popularity of the model, since bond showed that it was rugged, durable, and looked just as good with a suit as with relaxed clothes or diving equipment.

Unlike the first Submariner models, this watch featured a ”Mercedes” hand that is still used today and iconic for the model.

The Submariner ref 6538 is powered by a caliber 1030 which is a 25 jewel movement. The watch has sweep center seconds. 

Rolex Submariner reference number 6536

This Submariner was in production between 1954 and 1958.

The Submariner ref 6536 did not feature a big crown but instead started featuring a smaller crown. The size of the case, however, increased from its predecessors and was now 38 mm.

For this model, Rolex replaced the A260 movement in the 6536-1 and started using its first bi-directional automatic movement of which the rotor could rotate in both directions, more effectively powering the watch. The Caliber 1030 movement eventually also became Rolex’s first movement that was ”officially certified chronometer”. This would also come to be revealed by the ”Officially Certified Chronometer” text printed on the watch’s dial.

Rolex Submariner reference number 6536/1

As revealed in the previous reference number, this reference is only an updated version of the 6536.

The 6536 was quite a big success with its smaller crown and its 38mm case, and the difference between the predecessor is that this watch now featured Rolex’s officially certified caliber 1030.

Rolex Submariner reference number A/6538

In production in 1957, the 6538 was the first big crown model and the model which, as mentioned, James Bond wore in a number of films.

The 6538 has a number of different variations, and the A/6538 is one of them. The watches can vary with 2-lines and 4-lines of text printed on the bottom of the dial.

Rolex Submariner reference number 5508

Production years 1958 to 1965.

The Submariner 5508 was the last Submariner that would feature a small crown and no crown guards. This watch would come to become the last watch that featured many of the Submariner’s iconic and original traits.

The watch features an automatic movement, a domed acrylic crystal, a waterproof screw-down crown, and no crown guards.

Rolex Submariner reference number 5510

The Rolex 5510 was in production in 1959 and is the rarest watch among the big crown vintage Rolex Submariner watches.

The watch was only produced for one or two years, and this means that the number of examples made is limited, making the demand for them extremely high, and the prices equally so.

It was only made for a short time as it was then replaced by the 5512 and 5513 which featured larger cases.

It is said that only 400 to 600 examples of the Submariner reference 5510 were ever produced.

The watch featured the Rolex Caliber 1530 and had a thicker case to fit the movement, and slightly different shaped lugs.

Rolex Submariner reference number 5512

The 5512 was in production between 1959 and 1978. The 5512 and 5513 are often spoken about together, and the reason is that the watches are essentially the same, they both featured movements based on the caliber 1530. The 5512 and 5513 came to introduce the crown guard of Rolex’s Submariner watches. The crown guards protected the crown from shock and other damages, and this is something that is still used to this very day on most of Rolex’s sports watches and has been used on all following Submariner models.

The reference 5512 ceased its production in 1978, however, the 5513 continued to be manufactured. Since the 5512 stopped its production before the 5513, the price for the 5512 tends to be slightly more expensive.

The first iterations of the 5512 did not have the text Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified on the dial, because the fact is, they weren’t chronometers. Eventually, though, the ref.5512 Submariners were equipped with a chronometer-certified caliber 1560 and 1570 movement, and with the introduction of these movements, it also started to feature the chronometer writing on the dial – the four-line writing.

Now, here’s the difference: the 5513 also used the caliber 1030 movement, however, it was then also equipped with the different non-chronometer caliber 1520 movement quite quickly after it had been introduced.

Rolex Submariner reference number 5513

The Submariner reference 5513 was in production between 1962 and 1990. In other words, it was in production for a whopping 30 or so years. 

Since the production of the 5513 was so long, Rolex made a number of different changes to the watch over the years, which means that even though the reference might be the same, the two watches can be different in a number of ways.

For example, Rolex replaced the gilt gloss dial in 1966 with a “meters first” matte dial. Furthermore, Rolex introduced a non-serif version of the typography which was printed on the watch’s dial in 1970. The luminous dots on the indexes of the watch increased in size in 1976, and this has come to be known as Maxi-dials, due to the large indexes.

Collectors find the 5513 very interesting to collect since the many iterations of the models make it so that you never really know what you will find, and you have to look at the small details that vary between them. The 5513 is because of its long production run quite easy to find, however, in more recent years, the price has increased significantly.

Rolex Submariner reference number 5513/5517

Produced between 1972 and 1978, the Rolex Submariner 5513/17 is a military Submariner. This is one of the most sought-after collection pieces of the Submariner range, because their caries an interesting history, and the production is very limited.

The watch is more commonly referred to as the Milsub due to the fact that it was made specifically for the military – ”Military sub”.

The Milsub is considered (and most likely is) the most famous military-issued dive watch. 

The Brits were early to use divers for war purposes and various missions, and as such, the British military divers needed a robust and reliable dive watch for their missions.

As such, since Role was the leading watch company at the time when it came to waterproof watches, they were assigned the mission of developing the first military-issued Submariner.

As the reference number revealed, the Milsub was built on the Rolex Submariner 5513, because really, Rolex had no reason to change a winning concept. The Milsub is different from the original 5513 in a number of ways. First, it features fixed bars, a tritium “T” on the dial, sword hands, and a 60-minute bezel with hash marks for each of the 60 minutes as opposed to the first 15 minutes on your average diver’s watch.

Today, the Rolex Submariner Milsub is one of the most expensive vintage Rolex watches due to its extreme rarity.

Rolex Submariner reference number 5514

Produced between 1972 and 1978, the Rolex Submariner reference 5514 is a special release of the 5513 and is made specifically for COMEX – Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises, which is a French company that specialized in engineering and deep diving operations. As such, their diver’s needed only the best diver’s watches, and Rolex had proven that they made the best diver’s watches.

The 5514 is based on the 5513, however, there are a few differences and modifications done to the watch. The most important difference is that the 5514 COMEX Submariner has a helium escape valve on the left side of the case, which is a feature made for deep-sea saturation divers who are worried about their watch becoming pressurized inside their suits.

The COMEX Submariner was only produced in 150 examples, and therefore, it’s certainly one of the most expensive submariners out there.

In a way, the Comex is essentially a Sea-Dweller due to the helium escape valve, however, since the COMEX watch is based on the 5513, you may say that it is either a Sea-Dweller or a Submariner.

The COMEX was never available for sale to the public, but rather made as tools for the divers, who wore them as an integral part of their gear.

Rolex Submariner reference number 1680

The Rolex Submariner 1680 was produced between 1966 and 1981. Before this time, Rolex didn’t see any point in having a date function on diver’s watches since divers wouldn’t have any need for it while diving, however, now, the audience of people who wore the Submariner had expanded to the everyday people who wore the Submariner because they liked the look of it, and never went diving with it. The majority of Submariner owners never went diving, and as such, a date function would actually be helpful for the people wearing it. As such, with the 1680, Rolex introduced a date window featuring Rolex’s iconic Cyclops which is a magnifying bubble attached to the crystal with glue to magnify the date window 2.5x.

Rolex Submariner reference number 16800

The Submariner 16800 was produced between 1977 and 1987. It is considered a transitional model and was the first Rolex Submariner which featured a sapphire crystal as opposed to a plexi/plastic. The watch also has a high-beat movement.

Since it was a transitional model, it has a number of different elements that collectors love, including tritium lime and a matte dial.

The 16800 was the first Rolex Submariner that would be waterproof down to 300m.

Rolex Submariner reference number 168000

The 168000 was made in 1987 and is quite a rare version of the 16800. 

The 168000 was only made for a short period of time (less than one year), but despite this, the watch has a number of tweaks, changes, and improvements to it. The most important difference is that with this model, Rolex went from using regular 316L steel to 904L steel in their watches – the steel which is now used in all of Rolex’s steel watches and produced in their very own foundry.

Rolex Submariner reference number 16610

The previous model, the 168000 came to be replaced by the reference 16610 after just 9 months in production.

The 16610 was very much the same watch, but the difference was that it sported the new 3135 movement.

The 16610 can be considered a fairly modern Submariner model since it was produced from 1987 all the way up to 2010 and is considered to be the mark of the modern era of the Rolex Submariner.

The watch features many of the traditional characteristics of the Submariner, but it now sported a new dial that used white gold for the metal surrounding the index markers.

Rolex Submariner reference number 16803

This is a gold/steel – two-ten version of the Rolex Submariner. The first two-tone Submariner was produced from 1983 to 1988

The watch is a transitional model that uses a sapphire crystal, but it is also special since it is the first two-tone Submarine model, since, previously, there wasn’t really any reason to use gold in the watches. It was only now when regular non-diving people started using them that they became popular.

Rolex Submariner reference number 14060

The Submariner 14060 was produced between 1990 and 2002. It is essentially the same watch as the 16610 but the only difference is that it doesn’t have a date function, giving a hint to the past of Rolex’s past dive watches. There are split options between people about whether or not the no-date or date version is best, but collectors often find themselves leaning towards no-date versions since it gives a symmetrical design and makes them visually balanced.

Rolex Submariner reference number 14060M

The Rolex Submariner 14060M is essentially the same watch as the 14060, but the difference is that it became a certified chronometer in 2007.

 The 14060M was the last Rolex to bear an aluminum bezel insert. The model was produced between 2002–2012, and from 2007 to 2012, it became a Certified chronometer.

Another ”last of its kind” is the drilled lugs used on the watch, which no longer is used for any of Rolex’s models.

Rolex Submariner reference number 16613

The Submariner 16613 is another two-tone version of the Rolex Submariner.

It has a rotating bezel in aluminum, but unlike the other Submariner watches, it’s not black, but finished in a striking blue color, just like its dial.

The model was produced approximately from 1988 to 2010. 

Rolex Submariner reference number 16618

The Rolex Submariner reference 16618 was made in 1990 and is the first Rolex Submariner in solid gold. 

The 16618 has a solid 18-karat yellow gold case and bracelet, the standard rotating bezel but in gold

Since for divers, having a solid gold watch is completely unnecessary, this full-gold timepiece is the ultimate statement piece.

The model was made both in black and blue.

Rolex Submariner reference number 16610LV

The Rolex Submariner reference 16610LV is the 50th-anniversary model of the Rolex Submariner and was produced between 2003 and 2010.

The watch is essentially a 16610 but instead of a black aluminum bezel, it features a green insert.

The watch was made to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Submariner and in more recent years, its popularity has increased, and so has the price for it.

Rolex Submariner reference number 116610LV

The Rolex Submariner 116610 LV is a modern Submariner watch with Rolex’s Maxi dial and Maxi case.

The watch has a green sunburst dial and a Cerachrom bezel and is referred to by collectors as the ”Hulk” due to its green color.

The Rolex Submariner ”Hulk” has a date function, the iconic rotating bezel with minute marks till 15 minutes past. The hour markers are made in 18 ct gold to prevent tarnishing. It was discontinued in 2020.

It is powered by the Rolex Caliber 3135.

Rolex Submariner reference number 114060

The Rolex Submariner reference 114060 is discontinued as of 2020 and is built upon the previous 114060. You can say that the 114060 is a newer generation of the 14060. It features a bulkier and larger case ”Maxi-case”, a Cerachrom bezel as opposed to an aluminum insert which is scratch-proof.

The case is 40 mm with a black dial, a black, bezel, and white Luminova hour markers.

Rolex Submariner reference number 116610LN

The Rolex Submariner is an identical watch to the 114060 with one exception – it features a date function. The 114060 and 116610LN were in production during the same period and the choice between either depends if you want a date function or not – and if you prefer the functionality of the Submariner Date or the clean dial of the 114060.

Rolex Submariner reference number 116613LB

The 116613 is the newer generation of Maxi-case, and this model is essentially an updated version of the previous 16613 that featured a smaller and less bulky case, and an aluminum bezel. It was discontinued in 2020.

The 116613LB has a striking blue sunburst dial, and the case and bracelet are made in 904L steel, contrasted by luxurious 18-karat yellow gold.

The bezel is also blue and made in scratch-proof Cerachrom.  Discontinued in 2020.

Rolex Submariner reference 116618LN

The 116618LN was made in 2007. It is, just like the 16618 made in both black and blue, but with the new, modern Maxi-case and Cerachrom bezels.

The case and bracelet are made in solid 18-Karat gold and also feature Rolex’s new Glidelock clasp. Discontinued in 2020.

Rolex Submariner 116618LB

The 116610LB was released in 2009 and is a bold and bright version of the otherwise traditional and orthodox Submariner. With its bright full yellow gold case and bracelet and its bright blue color, this is definitely a watch that stands out from the crowd. The watch features a Maxi case and Maxi dial. Equipped with 3135 Caliber. Glidelock clasp and of course an Oyster bracelet. It has a blue Cerachrom bezel and a blue sunburst dial. This watch is identical to the 116618LN with the difference that it has a blue bezel and a blue dial instead of black.

An interesting detail to point out is that at the beginning of its production, this watch came with a flat blue ceramic dial. But eventually, this dial came to become replaced by a blue sunburst dial. The sunburst dial gives this watch much more life and personality as it allows the dial to change color depending on how the light hits it.  Discontinued in 2020.

Rolex Submariner reference 116619

The Rolex Submariner 116619 is a popular (but pricey) Rolex Submariner watch. Also referred to as ”smurf” by collectors, this watch is finished in solid 18-Karat white gold and features a blue dial and blue Cerachrom bezel. It is made in Rolex’s new Maxi case.  Discontinued in 2020.

Rolex Submariner reference 126610LN

Presented on September 1st, 2020, this model is an upgrade to the previous 116610LN and features Rolex’s new generation caliber 3235, a 1mm wider lug width, a diameter of 41mm, and refined, slimmer lugs. Made in stainless steel with date function.

Rolex Submariner reference 124060

Presented on September 1st, 2020, this model is an upgrade to the previous 116610LN and features Rolex’s new generation caliber 3230, a 1mm wider lug width, a diameter of 41mm, and refined, slimmer lugs. Made in stainless steel without a date function.

Rolex Submariner reference 126613LB

Presented on September 1st, 2020, this model is an upgrade to the previous 116610LN and features Rolex’s new generation caliber 3230, a 1mm wider lug width, a diameter of 41mm, and refined, slimmer lugs. Made in a combination of stainless steel and gold, featuring a blue sunburst dial and a blue ceramic bezel. With a date function.

Rolex Submariner reference 126613LN

Released in 2020 as a successor to the 116613LN. Featuring a 41mm stainless steel case, and is made with a combination of yellow gold and steel. The case has refined and slimmer lugs, a 1mm wider lug width, and is powered by Rolex’s new generation caliber 3235.

Rolex Submariner reference 126619LB

Full 18ct white gold Submariner presented in 2020. The watch is the successor of the 116619LB, but now has a black dial and blue ceramic bezel insert, and not a blue dial like the predecessor. Powered by the new generation caliber 3235.

Rolex Submariner reference 126618LN

Full 18ct yellow gold Submariner with black dial and black ceramic bezel insert. Released in 2020. This is the successor to the 116618LN and has been slightly refined with a 41mm yellow gold case, slimmer lugs, a 1mm wider bracelet, and of course the new generation Rolex caliber 3235.

Rolex Submariner reference 126618LB

Full yellow gold Submariner with blue dial and blue ceramic bezel insert. Released in 2020. This is the successor to the 116618LB. It is powered by the new generation caliber 3235, has Rolex’s new generation caliber 3235, a diameter of 41mm, and refined and slimmer lugs.

Rolex Submariner reference 126610LV

Presented in 2020, this is the successor of the 116610LV. But unlike its predecessor, it has a black dial rather than a green sunburst dial. The green ceramic bezel insert still remains. It has a diameter of 41mm, more refined and slim lugs, as well as the latest generation caliber 3235.

The post The Complete List of Rolex Submariner Models and Reference Numbers appeared first on Millenary Watches.

The Rolex Submariner is arguably the most recognized watch in the world. Having established a legendary status, it has become the go-to luxury sports watch, and become the first watch people think about when they think of a dive watch.

The Submariner has had a huge impact on the sports and dive watch industry, and become the definition of a dive watch. With that said, many other manufacturers have taken note and found inspiration from the design of the iconic Submariner. Considering its legendary status, a lot of people aspire to one day own a Submariner. And others, who plan to finally buy their first luxury sports watch, naturally gravitate towards the Submariner as the first option.

With that said, a Rolex Submariner is not cheap. In fact, vintage Submariner watches get huge sums at auction, and stainless steel Submariners fetch a premium over the retail price. Furthermore, due to its great popularity, it is a watch that is everywhere. Not everywhere in a literal sense, because, let’s not forget, most people don’t buy a 10.000 dollar watch. But everywhere in the sense that if you look closely at what watch people are wearing, you won’t be surprised when you see a Submariner. Whilst the Submariner is considered a watch that every watch enthusiasts need to have in their collection, there may be other reasons why you gravitate towards something else. You may be after a watch that shares the same ethos as the Submariner, of a luxury tool watch, but is more discreet and not instantly recognizable. Or maybe, you want to find a watch that ticks many of the boxes that the Submariner does, but at a more affordable price.

Perhaps you already own a Submariner and love it (how can you not?), but want to try something new and more unique, which does what the Submariner does, but has a different approach to doing it?

One thing is certain, the market does not lack luxury sports/dive watches. In fact, it is full of them, and the options are many. Both are cheaper as well as more affordable alternatives.

To help you find that perfect dive watch that is an alternative to a Rolex Submariner, we list 13 great dive- and luxury sports watches. All of them feature mechanical movements and offer water resistance that is more than enough for the vast majority of people.

Further on, we’ll also take a look at some affordable Rolex Submariner alternatives for everyone who is not willing to spend thousands of dollars on a watch but still enjoy the look of the Submariner.

13 Rolex Submariner alternatives

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M

The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M is probably the watch that is most often compared with the Submariner. In Omega Facebook groups, we can often read the term ”Submariner killer”, in the argument that the Seamaster is better than the Submariner.

Whether or not it is, we leave it up to you to decide, but the Seamaster Diver 300M does have many benefits.

Firstly, it’s safe to say that the Seamaster has established a legendary status. Its design is now iconic, and its history is long and appealing, including being worn by James Bond.

In terms of specifications, the Seamaster has a similar performance as the Submariner.

Just like the Submariner, it is available in a number of different price ranges. The most recent iteration was released in 2018 and this is the watch that is the most similar to Rolex’s current Submariner. It has a ceramic bezel, a ceramic dial, 300-meter water resistance, a bracelet with a diving adjustment, and solid and reliable mechanical movement. Then, of course, there is the price. Earlier iterations, for example from the 1990s to 2017, are considerably cheaper than any Submariner out there. These range from 1000 USD up to about 4000 USD. Considering its specifications, in particular the generation before 2018, it’s safe to say that it is a watch that offers great value for money. Due to its price point, it tends to be an entry-level watch for people who want to get into dive-and sports watches.

Omega Seamaster 300

The Omega Seamaster 300M is quite similar to the Seamaster Diver 300M but has a number of changes.

The Omega Seamaster 300 was introduced in 1957 and was a watch designed specifically for divers and professionals who worked underwater. More than half a century later, Omega reintroduced an upgraded and updated watch  ”prepared to equip a new generation of adventurers on land and in the oceans.”

With that said, this watch is a modern dive watch, with modern performance, but has vintage-inspired elements, including a matte black dial, and aged lume plots. Similar to the model from which it takes its inspiration, it has a symmetrical case and lugs and big hands and numbers for easier reading in various lighting conditions.

Read our in-depth guide about this model here.

Tudor Heritage Black Bay

It’s no secret that Tudor is owned by Rolex. With that said, the Tudor Heritage Black Bay shares a lot of design features and lines from the vintage Rolex dive watches. This is in particular due to the fact that it is a vintage-inspired model, which seeks inspiration from Tudor’s vintage dive watches primarily from the 1950s and 1960s, which at the time were assembled with the same parts as Rolex watches.

This is why the Tudor Heritage Black Bay reminds of the Submariner in many ways but is still different enough from the current Submariner that it will not be mixed up. It has a unique design, but still embraces the traditional designs and lines of vintage dive watches, which makes this a great alternative to the Submariner.

This model was upgraded in 2016 to include an in-house movement. This movement, of course, has been developed with the help of the know-how and expertise from Rolex, which ultimately makes it a watch that offers great value for money.

The price of the Tudor Heritage Black Bay is less than half of that of the Submariner, but the quality is high and the watch is extremely well-built. The Tudor Heritage Black Bay is available with either a red, blue, or black bezel.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight

The Tudor Heritage Black Bay Fifty-Eight was released by Tudor in 2018 and is a variant of the standard Heritage Black Bay. The major difference is that it has a 39mm case instead of 41. This is great news for people who prefer smaller and less bulky watches. Furthermore, as this watch is a vintage-inspired watch, more specifically based on a vintage dive watch from Tudor released in 1958 (hence its name), it stays true to not only the design but also the size ideals of the time. Mind you, 41mm dive watches were very uncommon (essentially non-existent?), in the 1950s.

Like the standard Heritage Black Bay, it features an in-house movement and has a very high build quality. The price is also less than half of the Submariner, making it a watch that offers great value for money.

 Breitling Superocean Heritage

The Breitling Superocean Heritage is another popular alternative to the submariner

This watch is available in a number of different sizes and iterations which means you should be able to find one that matches your size and design preference.

Furthermore, you also have variants of the Breitling Superocean, which go under a slightly different name, but the Superocean heritage is unarguably the most classic.

As the name suggests, it is a vintage-inspired watch that takes inspiration from Breitling’s vintage watches. It has a unique design, as well as good build quality.

Like the Submariner, it uses a ceramic bezel, but it ”only” has a water resistance of 200 meters. Still, more than most people will ever need. Like the Submariner, its design is timeless, as it is built on vintage designs that have proved they will never go out of style. The watch also uses the Breitling B20 caliber which is an in-house movement. The price is also much more affordable than that of the Submariner, at about two-thirds of the price.

Oris Aquis

The Aquis is one of Oris’s most popular dive watches, and it is also a more affordable alternative to the Submariner.  With a price of about 1000-2000 USD, it tends to be a choice for novice watch enthusiasts who are looking to dip their toes into the dive watch space but aren’t prepared to cough up 10000 USD for a Submariner. In fact, it isn’t necessarily a watch for novice collectors either, as it is respected and appreciated by most for what it is. It can simply be a choice for people who want a watch that offers great value for the money. And the Aquis sure does just that.

With the Aquis, you get a solid and robust watch with a ceramic bezel. This model is available in a large array of different colors and versions, which means you will be able to find one that suits your style and preference. The standard model, the Oris Aquis Date uses a Sellita-based, and Oris-modified caliber.

IWC Aquatimer

The IWC Aquatimer is a model that we feel has ended up a bit in the shadow of many other dive watches that have come out to the market. But that doesn’t mean the Aquatimer isn’t a good alternative to the Submariner.

It’s no secret that IWC makes great quality watches. The design of the Aquatimer is also unique, which makes it a great choice for someone who wants something that won’t be instantly recognizable, such as the Submariner. For most people, the Aquatimer will fly under the radar, but those who know will know.

Like the Submariner, it offers 300-meter water resistance and has a long and interesting history. Whilst IWC is not the first brand you think about when you consider dive watches, IWC has a long relationship and experience in making professional dive watches.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer

The Tag Heuer Aquaracer is a popular entry-level dive watch. It has an iconic and recognized design, and it is made by a famous and well-respected watch brand.

The Tag Heuer Aquaracer is truly a classic that you can never go wrong with.

What’s more, the Aquaracer collection consists of a number of different dive watches, so you can be sure to find one that you will like. The standard model uses a ceramic bezel insert a dive extension bracelet and a water resistance of 300 meters. Its price is far below the price of a Submariner, at about 2500 USD, which makes it a great choice if you want to enter the world of dive watches.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is a legendary and well-respected dive watch. Blancpain is famous for making some of the very early dive watches for professional divers, and those are exactly what the Fifty Fathoms is built on. In 1953, Blancpain released the Fifty Fathoms, which makes it one of the earliest dive watches.

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was made at the request of the French Navy’s elite SCUBA squad, called the Nageur de Combat. This group had specified the number of different features for a dive watch: a locking timing bezel to assure dive times didn’t get overextended, an auto-winding movement to reduce wear on the crown threads, and a leak warning system — in this case, a clever dot on the dial that would turn red if moisture was present. Meeting the group’s requests, the Blancpain quickly became a well-respected and prestigious dive watch. 

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms can, therefore, compete with the Submariner when it comes to a prestigious history, but also quality and craftsmanship. It has a well-made in-house caliber, a legendary history, and an appealing vintage-inspired design. What more can you ask for? Of course, being a watch from the fine Swiss watch brand Blancpain, this watch is actually more expensive than a Submariner.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean

The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean is yet another popular alternative to the Submariner from Omega. Looking at the specifications, the Planet Ocean is up to par with the Submariner. It has a ceramic bezel, ceramic dial, great build quality, and actually double the depth rating of the Submariner at 600 meters.

Furthermore, the Planet Ocean is available in an overwhelming number of iterations and versions, in a number of different sizes, so you can be sure to find one you will like. The price varies depending on which version you go for, but the standard model is priced lower than the Submariner.

Seiko Prospex SBDC051

Seiko’s dive watches should not be underestimated. Of course, there is a lot to choose from when it comes to Seiko dive watches, so please feel free to expose the rest of the brand’s offerings. But looking at the Seiko Prosper SBDC051, you can quickly recognize that it is a true dive watch.

It is sporty and tool-like, has a water resistance of 200 meters, and has an appealing design.

Of course, you won’t get the build quality and finish like that on a Submariner, but let’s not forget that this watch is priced at about 700-1000 USD, making it a watch that offers great value for money.

Breitling Superocean II 42

Another great alternative to the Submariner is the Breitling Superocean II 42. This watch is a variant of the Superocean Heritage and has a design that is more similar to what most people think about when they think about a dive watch. It is clean and has sleek lines and of course a great build quality. Like the Superocean Heritage, it is available in a number of different versions, so there is a lot to choose from. Also, the watch offers impressive 500-meter water resistance.

Tudor Pelagos

The last alternative to the Rolex Submariner is the Tudor Pelagos. Again, this a brand that is owned by Rolex and shares the company’s know-how.

The Tudor Pelagos is a bit different as it is made in full titanium, making it extremely light.

The most recent reference, the 25600 has an in-house caliber and an impressive water resistance of 500 meters. To enable this, the watch is equipped with a helium escape valve.

The Tudor Pelagos actually has a more clever clasp system than the Submariner, which consists of springs inside the clasp which extend or contract automatically when you wear it. 

The design is not vintage-inspired, which means it is completely unique. The watch is aesthetically pleasing, but at the same time won’t attract  (un)wanted attention like the Submariner.

BONUS tips – Top Affordable Rolex Submariner Alternatives

Above, we have gone through some of the best Rolex Submariner alternatives, but these are still watches that generally cost at least a few thousand dollars. With that said, if you are looking for affordable Rolex Submariner alternatives, keep on reading. Below are some of our best affordable alternatives for alternatives to the Rolex Submariner.

Casio Duro MDV-106-1AVCF

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, the Casio Duro MDV-106-1AVCF is undoubtedly my favorite affordable dive watch ever made. And there are good reasons for this.

This watch is probably the best dive watch in its price range if you look at build quality, finishing, and durability. The watch has a classic and timeless dive watch design which is exactly what you associate with a dive watch. It has a unidirectional rotating bezel with 60-minute graduation markers and a black aluminum insert. It has a sporty and robust stainless steel case and a beautiful black dial with large applied markers with a luminescence that allows for great legibility. The black dial has a beautiful sunburst finish which reflects the light in a really nice way. In many ways, this watch reminds of the Rolex Submariner.

As a dive watch should, it has good water resistance, which in this case is 200m/660 feet, making it suitable for swimming and diving.

For convenience, it has a window at 3 o’clock. Inside is a reliable quartz movement. The watch is presented on a black resin band.

Specifications

• Water resistance: 200m/660 feet
• Movement: quartz
• Diameter: 44mm
• Thickness: 12.1mm
• Weight: 92 grams

Citizen Eco-Drive Promaster BN0150-28E

The Citizen Eco-Drive Promaster BN0150-28E is a highly popular affordable dive watch that offers everything you expect from one. Durability, a classic design, great legibility, and water resistance.

This is an Eco-Drive timepiece which means that solar and ambient light generates energy for the movement and eliminates the need for replacing the battery. In turn, the energy is stored in a permanently rechargeable power cell.

The watch offers a water resistance of 200m/660 feet which makes it suitable for diving and swimming. The watch is ISO certified.

The watch has a durable stainless steel case design and a unidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute graduation scale with a black aluminum insert. On top of the case, it has an anti-reflective mineral crystal.

At 4 o’clock, it has a date window, and the watch has a matte black dial with large applied hour markers with luminescence applied to them. To allow for good legibility, it has large hands.

Like all great dive watches, and just like the Submariner, it has a classic and timeless design.

Specifications

• Solar-powered
• Water resistance: 200m/660 feet
• Crystal: Anti-reflective mineral glass
• Movement: caliber E168
• Diameter: 44m
• Thickness: 12mm

Orient ‘Mako II’ Automatic Diving Watch

The Orient Mako II is a classic and highly popular affordable dive watch. In many ways, it reminds of the classic Rolex Submariner 16610.

It has a stainless steel construction with a diameter of 41mm, a unidirectional rotating bezel, and a black aluminum insert with a luminous pip at 12 o’clock. The watch has a black dial with applied numerals with luminescence on them. The hands are sword-shaped and have luminescence on them as well. At 3 o’clock, it has a day and date window. The watch is water-resistant to 200m/660 feet.

The watch is powered by the automatic Orient caliber F6922 which has a hand-winding and manual-winding function. The movement has a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.

This watch is durable, sporty, robust, high-performing, and offers exceptional value for money.

Specifications

• Movement: Orient Caliber F6922. Hand-winding, hacking function
• Water resistance: 200m/660 feet
• Diameter: 41mm
• Power reserve: 40 hours

Bulova Men’s 98B203 Stainless Steel Watch

The Bulova 98B203 is a robust, durable, and sporty dive watch.

The watch has a unidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute graduation scale and black aluminum insert. On top of the case is a mineral crystal. Worth noting is that the watch ”only” has a water resistance of 100m/330 feet. With that said, it is suitable for swimming, but not deep diving.

Inside beats a Japanese quartz movement.

Like most classic dive watches, it has a black dial with large applied hour markers with luminescence applied to it. The hands are large too and have luminescence as well. Positioned at 3 o’clock, it has a date window.

Specifications

• Crystal: mineral glass
• Water resistance: 100m/330 feet
• Movement: Japanese quartz

Orient Kamasu Automatic Diving Watch

Orient is a brand that makes very popular affordable dive watches. With that said, it is easy to see why this Kamasu is so popular. It has a water resistance of 200m/660 feet, making it suitable for both diving and swimming. The name “Kamasu” is Japanese and means Barracuda, which is suitable for this watch.

It is presented with a stainless steel case with a diameter of 41.8mm. On top of the case, it has a sapphire crystal, which is a nice detail since many watches in this price range have mineral crystals. At 3 o’clock, it has a day and date window. It has a black background with applied hour markers and luminescent on the hour markers and hands.

Inside the watch is an automatic Orient caliber F6922 which has hand-winding and hacking seconds functions.

Last but not least, as a dive watch should, it has a unidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute graduation scale.

Specifications

• Diameter: 41.8mm
• Lug width: 22mm
• Crystal: Sapphire
• Water-Resistance: 200m/660 feet

Seiko SRP777 Prospex Automatic Diver’s

The Seiko SRP777 is presented with a stainless steel case with a diameter of 45mm and a thickness of 13.4mm. The watch has an iconic case design that is instantly recognizable as ”Seiko”, and this makes it great for people who want a high-performing dive watch with a slightly different design.

At the same time, the Seiko SRP777 offers everything you expect a dive watch to offer. It has a water resistance of 200m/660 feet, a unidirectional rotating bezel, and good legibility. The dial is black and has applied hour markers with luminescence on the markers and hands. At 3 o’clock, you’ll find a day and date window.

Another detail that watch enthusiasts, in particular, will appreciate is that it is powered by the automatic Seiko caliber 4R36. It has a power reserve of 41 hours.

Specifications

• Movement: Seiko automatic caliber 4R36
• Power reserve: 41 hours
• Crystal: Hardlex
• Water resistance: 200m / 660ft
• Thickness: 13.4MM
• Diameter: 45MM

Seiko Prospex SBDC033

This is a tough, sporty, and bulky dive watch with great performance and a classic design. A design that is also known as ”Sumo”.

The blue dial has large applied markers and large hands with luminescent material, allowing them to glow in the dark. At 3 o’clock, it has a date window. On top of the case, it has a Hardlex mineral crystal. The watch is of course equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel. To match the blue dial, it has a blue aluminum insert with a luminous pip at 12 o’clock.

The watch is powered by the in-house Seiko caliber 6R15. This is a self-winding movement with a hand-winding function. The power reserve is 50 hours.

Specifications

• Power reserve: 50 hours
• Jewels: 23
• Movement: Seiko automatic caliber 6R15
• Crystal: Hardlex mineral glass

Seiko 5 SRPD55K1 Man Steel Automatic

Last but not least, we have the Seiko 5 SRPD55K1 which is the predecessor of the iconic SKX. This watch has a classic and iconic dive-watch design, but it is more of a sports watch with a dive-watch design. This is partly due to its water resistance of 100m/330 feet which doesn’t meet the standard for a dive watch. But with that said, most people don’t go diving with their dive watches anyways, and if you’re someone who just enjoys the designs of dive watches, this is a great 

The watch has a stainless steel case with a diameter of 42.5mm and a unidirectional rotating bezel with a black aluminum insert. On top of the case, it has a Hardlex crystal.

Positioned at 3 o’clock, it has a day and date window. The watch has a black dial with applied markers and large hands applied with luminescence applied for better legibility.

Specifications

• Water resistance: 100m/660 feet
• Lug width: 22mm
• Diameter: 42.5mm
• Crystal: Hardlex

Alternatives to Rolex Submariner – buyer’s guide

As you can see, there are endless great alternatives to the Rolex Submariner whether you’re looking to spend a few thousand or just a few hundred. It’s safe to say that the Rolex Submariner is one of the most iconic, if not the most iconic dive watch ever made, and naturally, this has had a great impact on designs from other brands since it has created a design that is considered “the definition of a dive watch”.

There is a lot to consider when buying your next watch, particularly so when it comes to buying a Rolex alternative considering the fact that there is so much to choose from. To help you find the perfect watch for you, here are some important factors to keep in mind.

How similar do you want it to be to the Submariner?

There are plenty of watches that are made as homage watches to the Submariner, meaning that the design is essentially identical. Whilst homage watches tend to split opinions, they are naturally the closest to Rolex in terms of design. Then we have an endless selection of dive watches that may be inspired by the Submariner in one way or another but with their own design. A lot of people prefer watches with unique designs, and in this case, you really have a lot to choose from.

In this case, you can simply look at the Rolex Submariner and think about which elements of its design it is that you like. And accordingly, you can choose a watch that reminds of the Submariner. What is interesting is that because the Submariner is so iconic, it has led the way for what a dive watch is meant to be. The result is that most dive watches today remind of the Submariner in one way or another, although there are some watch brands that have gone their own route and created something completely different.

Size

The size, especially the diameter is always an important aspect of a watch since everyone has different wrist sizes and different preferences when it comes to watch sizes. Since dive watches are sports watches, they generally tend to be larger than many other watches. The standard size for the Submariner is 40-41mm in diameter. But the great thing when looking at alternatives to the Submariner is that you can find those that are both larger and smaller to cater to your taste and preferences.

Color

When we say color, we mainly refer to the dial but also the bezel. As you have seen on the watches above, and probably other watches as you have been browsing the web, you’ve seen that the Submariner as well as other watches are available in many different colors. The original Rolex Submariner is black, which is also the most classic, sporty, and discreet alternative, but if you want something more striking and eye-catching, there are other alternatives as well, such as blue dial, green dial, and so on.

Water-resistance

The Rolex Submariner is a dive watch, so naturally, it has rather good water resistance. Today, the Submariner has a water resistance of 300m, meaning you can go diving and swimming with it. But far from all dive watches and Rolex alternatives have that great of a water resistance. Many alternatives that are made for diving have a water resistance of 100m, and those that only have a dive-watch-inspired design but are not meant for diving may have a water resistance of 100m.

Therefore, consider if you are planning to go diving with your watch or if you’ll only go swimming occasionally. If you’re just going swimming, you’ll manage with just 100m. But if you’re going diving, you need at least 200m, which is the minimum depth rating a watch needs to be officially classified as a dive watch.

In general, watches with better water resistance tend to be bulkier, but this is by no means a rule, but rather a common correlation, although there are many exceptions.

Movement

All Rolex Submariners are powered by automatic movements, but if you’re looking at alternatives, this may not necessarily have to be the case. Alternatives can be found either with quartz (battery) movements or automatic movement. Which you choose ultimately comes down to preference.

Quartz watches tend to be more accurate and reliable, but automatic watches are more popular amongst watch enthusiasts who appreciate fine watchmaking and the complexity of a mechanical movement, consisting of hundreds of parts. In addition, automatic movements can generally last longer if maintained and looked after properly.

Other great affordable alternatives to Rolex Submariner

Conclusion

With the dive watch being one of the most popular watch types in the world, the market is naturally full of options. For many, the Submariner is “the ultimate” dive watch. But the fact is that there are also many other great dive watches to choose from that may be neglected as the Submariner is often the watch that first comes to mind for a lot of people. Are there any other watches you would add to this list as alternatives to the Rolex Submariner?

The post 13 Great Alternatives to the Rolex Submariner appeared first on Millenary Watches.

The topic of polishing watches is something that splits opinions. If you ask the most devoted watch enthusiasts, many of them would advise you not to polish your Rolex Submariner. And whilst this article is focused on this particular model, it is applicable to most Rolex watches.

In this article, we will go through how you can polish your Rolex Submariner at home with minimal tools and equipment to restore it to its former shine and remove scratches, whilst also being gentle to the watch.

To polish or not to polish?

This is a question that is constantly discussed in forums and online… The thing with polishing a watch is that when you polish it, you remove material from the case and bracelet.  If polished improperly, or too heavily, the watch can, especially over time and after many repeated polishes, risk losing its original shape, lines, and forms. This especially relates to the case of the watch since this, unlike a bracelet, cannot really be replaced. At least not affordably or easily. For a Rolex Submariner, it is particularly true since changing the case is extremely expensive (and difficult), but it also results in a different serial number, thus creating a mismatch that is very unattractive, and incorrect for that matter.

In other words, replacing the case on a Submariner is not really something you do…

With all of this said, with careful and light polishing, and when executed correctly, you minimize the removal of material from the case and can, therefore, polish it many times over without really making a noticeable difference in the case’s thickness and original shape.

With this in mind, in this article, we are going to go through exactly that. How you can do a home restoration by polishing and removing scratches from your Rolex Submariner in a careful manner. Some would argue that you should only have your watch polished by experts, but generally, when they are polished by watchmakers, they are polished with real polishing machines, which tend to remove more of the material than the methods discussed in this article will.

But from what we have observed using this method, the result is quite good.  But of course, it is completely up to you what you decide in the end.

Polishing the bracelet

To polish the bracelet (actually, you brush it since it has a brushed finish), you can use a  scotch Brite green pad. The Scotch Brite pad will leave a brushed finish on your bracelet when used, but it will do so very gently since it is far less grainy and aggressive than, say sandpaper.

To polish your bracelet, start by wetting the pad. Now, drag with smooth and gentle motions, along the bracelet, ideally in one-directions motions. Start with the clasp as this is naturally the part of the watch that will acquire the most scratches over time. Depending on how worn your bracelet is, it may be enough to only polish the clasp to bring it back to its former faulty-free finish.

When using the scotch Brite pad, make sure you pull it against the bracelet in a straight motion. Since the pad does give it a brushed finish,   it can leave uneven lines if you don’t do it perfectly.

How much pressure you should apply depends on how badly it is scratched. Note that when you apply more pressure, the graining of the finish will be rougher. Therefore, just before you are done, you can apply less pressure and check the finishing to make sure it is not too light but also not too rough. The goal is of course to get the finish to look just like when new.

Note that if you have a two-tone (gold and steel) Rolex Submariner, you should not brush the polished center. The best to prevent this is to put tape on this part.

Polishing the sides of the case

The best way to polish the sides of your Rolex Submariner case is to use Cape Cod polishing cloths. These cloths are impregnated with a very gentle polishing cream that helps polish the case. The cloths clean, polish and protects the polished surface of your watch, but most importantly work to remove hairlines and scratches.

NOTE: Do not use the polishing cloths for the lugs (brushed parts) of your case. This will remove the brushing and result in a polished finish that is not attractive. If you need to polish the lugs of your case, it is best to leave it to an expert as these delicate areas require more expertise and the correct tools for a perfect result.

To polish, take one of the cloths and gently start to rub against the polished parts for a few minutes. Start carefully one round, wipe off the residue, and see the result. If there are still scratches left, you can apply more pressure and polish for a few more minutes. Deeper scratches require more pressure and more time for polishing. You can take one round of polishing at a time, check the results, and see if you need to polish additionally.

Be careful to not polish the lugs when using the cloth as this will result in a shiny finish.

These Rolex Submariner polishing tips are meant to be used as a way of looking after your watch. It is difficult to remove deep scratches and dings, especially on the polished parts. If you want to remove these, it is best to have them polished by a professional. If you execute these polish and scratch removal tactics from home, you will be able to remove most, if not all scratches and hairlines without doing damage to them. Good luck!

The post Rolex Submariner Home Restoration Guide (Polish & Scratch Removal) appeared first on Millenary Watches.

When Rolex presented their 2020 Novelties on the first of September 2020, what came a big surprise for most people was the enlarged case which previously measured 40mm according to Rolex, which was now updated to 41mm.

The new Submariner was also introduced, not unexpectedly, to the new generation caliber 3235. The bracelet is wider, the clasp is bigger and an old special dial and bezel configuration is once again introduced. Let us take a deeper look at the new Rolex Submariner reference 126610LV.

The New Case Size – 41mm

This is the largest Submariner ever created by Rolex. However, do not let the size frighten you as the 1mm increased case was an extremely clever move by Rolex in order to fix the proportions of the Submariner without making its wrist appearance smaller.
The previous Submariner Date reference 116610 (or 116610LV in green) had quite large and thick lugs, which is known as the “maxi-case”, as seen below:

Although the size of the previous reference is not too big, it is easy, when comparing to the new Submariner reference 126610, to see why Rolex made the increased case size and why the proportions of the watch have changed.

The previous generation Submariner compared to the new looks squared on the wrist with too thick lugs, some may say. Although it might be hard for the untrained eye to tell the difference without comparing the two side-by-side, It’s quite easy to understand why Rolex refined the case of the submariner and thereby increasing the size to 41mm to not compromise on the wrist appearance. The new case of the Submariner reminds of the old 5-digit reference Submariners, for example, the 16610, which according to many, even before the Submariner got updated in 2020, had a lot better proportions with slimmer lugs than the maxi-case Submariner 116610. The 16610/14060 case can be seen below:

Caliber 3235

What perhaps is the most meaningful and important to the Submariner is of course the updated movement which is a huge difference for the new generation Submariner compared to the previous. You can read our in-depth guide of the Caliber 3235 here, and a more detailed comparison of the previously used Caliber 3135 here.

Caliber 3235 now offers a 70-hour long power reserve, a more robust movement, a chronergy escapement with thinner pallet stones, and double escape wheel teeth which results in a 15% increased efficiency along with friction fitted balance staff, ball-bearing monobloc perpetual rotor, and a lot more technical updates. Rolex as we know is a company that focuses on evolution rather than revolution, and the updated movement caliber 3235 really is a perfect example of this.

The movement Caliber 3135 which first debuted in 1988 is known for being a robust working horse as a movement that is really reliable. In 2015 the new caliber 3235 first debuted which is even better than the reputable caliber 3135 and now in 2020 it finally was fitted inside the Submariner case, which is huge.

A Wider Bracelet

The previous generation Submariner was fitted with an oyster bracelet which was 20mm wide. Because the case got bigger, to match the proportions, the bracelet naturally also got bigger for the new Submariner, as a result the bracelet is now 21mm which might seem too big or a difficult size, but actually fits the watch perfectly. The new clasp is also significantly bigger and wider, which gives the watch sportier and more tool-looking character.

Kermit – Cermit – Shrek – Starbucks

In 2003 the Submariner celebrated 50 years, and Rolex decided to release a 50th Anniversary Edition, reference 16610LV, which quickly acquired the nickname “Kermit”, because of its green aluminum bezel and black dial. Some might ask themselves why green is seen as a relevant color for Rolex. The answer is that the color green has become a strong brand identity and a signature color, and is therefore seen as a relevant color for special watches or anniversaries.

When the Submariner 116610 was introduced in 2010 the 50th Anniversary Rolex which was introduced in 2003 got discontinued. The model has ever since become highly collectible and sought after, and now in September 2020, Rolex decided to re-introduce the dial and bezel configuration as we previously called and knew as the “Kermit”. In other words, it is technically an important piece due to its historical connection to the 16610LV.

However, as the previous “Kermit” was equipped with an aluminum bezel and the new reference 126610LV is with a ceramic bezel, names such as “Cermit” with a C instead of a K, which indicate ceramic, started to be used, along with other nicknames such as Starbucks and Shrek.

Now, what is interesting is the choice of bezel color and the dial. What appears to be true at first glance is that the choice of the bezel is the same color as the previous Rolex Submariner “Hulk” reference 116610LV, and the dial is just like the Submariner Date Black. With that said, nor is the color new-thinking or unique, but just as mentioned before Rolex has likely decided to go for evolution rather than revolution. In this case, updating the insert from aluminum as the 50th Anniversary Rolex Submariner used, to ceramic.

What made the 50th-anniversary Submariner reference 16610LV “Kermit” collectible and a highly sought-after model is the different dial and color variations of the bezel, you can read our detailed guide to the Rolex Submariner 16610LV “Kermit” here. The question here is if Rolex decides to go down the same path with the newly released 126610LV “Cermit”. Perhaps Rolex will decide to update the color of the bezel to a different color than the Rolex Submariner “Hulk” reference 116610LV? No one can tell for sure, but being Rolex it does not sound unlikely.

Swiss♕Made

What is also new for the dial layout is the crown located at the 6 o’clock position between “Swiss” and “Made”. This is new for all updated models from Rolex which has a new movement starting with 32, in this case, Caliber 3235. The text at the 6 o’clock position has evolved this time as well, and it’s safe to say that “Swiss♕Made” is the new text style, which previously only was “Swiss Made”, indicating the new generation caliber.

The post Rolex Submariner 126610LV – Novelty 2020 Complete Guide appeared first on Millenary Watches.

In 1988 the first “modern” non-transitional Submariner Two-Tone was released. It came with a black dial and bezel, a blue dial and bezel, and very rarely a Serti-dial with diamonds and sapphires on the hour markings.

It was in production until 2009 when it was replaced by the maxi-case Submariner reference 116613. Just recently, after 11 years in production, the model once again evolved and on September first, 2020 Rolex presented the newest Submariner reference 126613. Let us take a deeper look at the evolution of the modern Submariner Two-Tone watches.

Submariner 16613LB

After 16803 was discontinued, which was only in production for 4 years and often is seen as a transitional model, Rolex introduced the Submariner Two-Tone 16613LB and 16613LN. The model was equipped with a two-tone 18K gold and stainless steel oyster bracelet with a divers extension, and an aluminum bezel insert, and was available with a blue dial and bezel insert. It was also available with a black dial and bezel insert as well as a rare Serti-dial which has diamonds and sapphires as the hour markers.

The watch measures 40mm and wears rather small as the classic Submariner was designed. The movement has ever since its release in 1988 been the caliber 3135, a workhorse movement with a 48-hour power reserve and robust design built to be shock-resistant. During the production line of the Rolex Submariner 16613 the case, but also the dial and bracelet evolved in different steps.

Submariner 16613LB – Dial luminosity

When reference 16613 first was introduced the luminous dial and hands were made of tritium. Tritium is slightly more radioactive but far from dangerous when exposure to it is limited. However, a problem with tritium is that the half-time time is 12,3 years. This means that after approximately 12 years the mass will only glow half as bright as it originally did. And after an additional 12,3 years, it will barely glow at all. With this said, the mass will always glow but will fade away and become lighter and lighter the more time passes.

This was eventually updated in the late 90s to Luminova (C3) which emits green light but has a half-time far longer than tritium, and will therefore never become a problem as it will always glow strongly as it did when it left the factory. Not only was the mass of the luminous material changed, but a unique phenomenon of the blue dial is that it could, over time, depending on what climate the watch was worn in, develop a purple dial.

From a Rolex point of view, this is not good as this means the original look of the watch changes over time, and might therefore not be guaranteed to be contemporary as Rolex always strives for. From a collector’s point of view, this is great as it offers a unique “error” which is much appreciated in terms of color.

It’s evident that Rolex is working hard to make sure their watches look just the same 10 or 50 years from now as when they did when they left the factor

Submariner 16613LB – Oyster Bracelet

Originally the oyster bracelet had hollow end-links, which gives character to the watch according to some, and a more tool-looking feel, however, when comparing to a new bracelet it is safe to say that the hollow-end links really feel poorly made, even cheap, due to the rattly and light feel and less sturdy build quality. The bracelet was also equipped with a flip-lock made from thin steel, which in the early 2000s was upgraded to a more robust solution that also was more secure and less prone to open by accident.

The bracelet, even though it was a two-tone watch made in 18-carat gold and stainless steel, had a stainless steel clasp, which looks odd in hindsight. This was later upgraded in the early 2000s as well and instead the clasp now also featured a matching theme of two-tone. The previously hollowed end links were also removed in the early 2000s and were instead replaced with solid end links, which is a common word in the unofficial Rolex dictionary, SEL (Solid End link).

Submariner 16613LB – The Case

The case was first made with lug holes, or what some call “Drilled lugs” which gives the watch, according to many, a true tool look, but also a practical benefit as it makes changing the strap or bracelet extremely simple, by simply pushing out the spring bar from the drilled lug.

This was removed in the early 2000s and part of the charm of a tool watch was gone, according to some, while many others enjoyed the new case without any drilled lugs. It resulted in a more refined look.

In 2007, a big upgrade was made to the Submariner case, Rolex now introduced the engraved rehaut, or what commonly is known as the text engraved between the glass and the dial “Rolex Rolex Rolex…”. This is, now a standard feature for every professional Rolex watch, but it was the first time ever seen on a Submariner. This is often the reason why this model, in particular, the Submariner 16613, is discussed whether it is a vintage reference, even though it was first released in 1988, but as the model has undergone several “modern” touches or improvements.

Submariner 116613LB

In 2009, Rolex presented what quickly became known as the maxi case/dial Submariner. This evolution was huge.  A whole new case, a new modern and robust bracelet with an all-new patented glide-lock function specially made for divers to adjust the length of the bracelet to have on top of their wetsuit. And maybe most importantly, a ceramic bezel.  Although the watch measured the same as the previous generation Submariner Two-Tone, reference 16613, it wore significantly larger due to the bulkier case design.

116613LB Dial and Hands

The first dial which was in production for the maxi-case Submariner, reference 116613LB, had, at first, a matte blue dial. It was quickly given the name “Smurf-dial” as it really did remind of the white gold version Submariner, reference 116619, which during its whole production only had a matte blue dial.

According to some, the matte dial Submariner 116613LB might perhaps be the worst dial ever made for the Submariner as it does not have a sunburst finish. This dial was only in production for a few years and could very well be a future collector’s choice for the Submariner 116613LB. It was then later swapped out for a sunburst dial which really has a great impact on its visual appearance. The striking blue dial with golden text quickly acquired the nickname “Bluesy”.

116613LB Bezel

The bezel is one of the major improvements to the Submariner reference 116613LB. The insert which previously was in aluminum would easily take damage if it were scratched, making it quite fragile which is not something Rolex likes. It would also fade in color over time. The aluminum bezel developed its own patina depending on who’s wearing the watch, and how it was worn.

This is something that Rolex does not like as it changes the original look of the watch, and might therefore not be forever contemporary, in their eyes. With the new Ceramic bezel insert, it is more or less impossible to age the look of it, it is also extremely scratch-resistant, but has the downside that it can crack just as any ceramic, although it is difficult.

116613LB Case

The case of the Submariner measures 40mm, although it looks a lot bigger when compared to the previous generation Submariner. The case is what we know as the “maxi-case” and has a lot more material, thicker lugs and overall really looks a lot more masculine and aggressive. What shortly after its release became what people talked about was its big thick lugs that made the watch lose its original proportions and look more squared.

The new proportions really do make a great appearance on the wrist while you are wearing the watch, although, just as many people say, the proportions of the case are different from the original design where the lugs are a lot slimmer and give the impression of being a rectangle rather than a square.

116613LB Oyster Bracelet

The updated bracelet instantly looked and felt a lot more robust than the previous generation just from the pictures. When comparing the two bracelets, they are totally different in every possible way. Without hesitation, everyone would admit that the bracelet for the maxi-case Submariner 116613LB is far better than the previous one.

The new patented glide-lock feature is perhaps the most efficient solution ever made as a divers extension for a bracelet. What previously was equipped on the oyster bracelet was a flip-lock that had a fixed length of the extension which made it too big or in some cases too tight for some diving suits. The new Glidelock made it possible to perfectly extend or shorten the bracelet for a perfect fit. Now, each wearer of the Submariner could tailor-extend the bracelet according to their own preference.

126613LB

On September first, 2020, Rolex after 11 years in production decided to evolve the Submariner, this time we could clearly see that the refined case, although it is the biggest Submariner ever measuring 41mm, has a lot better proportions which remind of the 5-digit Submariner 16613. The watch is equipped with the updated movement caliber 3230, which now offers a 70 hours power reserve, among greater and more shock-resistant construction than the previously used movement, caliber 3135.

126613LB Dial and Hands

What quickly might catch your attention is the white lettering, which previously was in gold. At first glance it might seem like an odd decision, to mix the golden markers on the bezel with text and markings on the dial which is white. However, what previously was an issue on the Submariner 116613LB was in fact the text which was quite hard to see in direct sunlight because of the sunburst dial. With white lettering, this problem now is solved, and despite the text being white, it goes very well with the overall look of the watch. In terms of the dial layout, the text written at the 6 o’clock position has undergone a change as well.  Instead of the previous text which was “Swiss Made”, it is now the same text but with a Rolex crown added between “Swiss” and “Made”.

126613LB Bracelet

The bracelet might appear to be the same, but is in fact 1mm wider, now measuring 21mm. Not only is the bracelet wider, but the clasp has gotten a lot bigger and wider. The glide-lock function remains the same and apart from the clasp and width, there are no other improvements.

126613LB Case

The perhaps most exciting part of the watch is of course the new refined case design. The previous generation Submariner reference 116613LB does have, as earlier mentioned, a more square-looking case with thick lugs. It took Rolex some time but finally, the case has been refined and carries the proportions of the 5-digit reference number Submariners. This is a major statement from Rolex as well, as they only release contemporary designs which according to themselves will be timeless, as they have chosen to go back to the “original” proportions of the Submariner, although it is bigger.

Question!

Which of the above three Submariner Two-Tones is your favorite?

The post The Modern Two-Tone Submariner 16613, 116613 and 126613 – An Overview appeared first on Millenary Watches.

When the Baselworld watch fair was dissolved in 2020, a general conception was that in order to follow the same strategy that Rolex had followed since many decades back, Rolex would not present its new models that year but wait for 2021 instead. This did not happen, but instead, Rolex arranged its own press release for the 2020 models in London, United Kingdom instead.

At the same time that Rolex releases its new models for the year, Rolex also presents its full current collection. This of course also means that the brand announces the models that are discontinued.

And after many years of speculation, what many people have anticipated happening in 2020 has happened. The LEGENDARY Rolex Submariner 116610LV “Hulk” has been discontinued.

Rolex Submariner 116610LV HULK discontinued 2020

The discontinuation of the Rolex Submariner 116610LV has been subject to a lot of speculation and debate. In recent years, there has been a lot of speculation about the Rolex Submariner and whether or not it would still be a part of Rolex’s collection.

The Rolex Submariner 116610LV “Hulk” is today one of the most sought-after and popular watches from Rolex’s collection. But this hasn’t always been the case. When presented in 2010, it wasn’t met with all the hype and popularity that it sees today. Yes, the color green and Rolex go hand-in-hand, but a bright green-colored steel watch? A lot of people were skeptical despite the strong connection.

But over the years – in particular, in the last 3 years or so, the popularity of the Submariner 116610LV has exploded. As a result, the prices on the secondhand market have skyrocketed, and the waiting lists from official Rolex retailers have closed in many places due to the demand that is far higher than the supply.

As the speculation of the discontinuing of the Rolex Hulk has only gotten stronger, it has led to the secondhand prices increasing even further. And now, for the brand’s 2020 novelty announcements, the Rolex Submariner 116610LV “Hulk” has officially been announced discontinued.

Future prices for the Rolex Submariner 116610LV Hulk

Due to the immense increase in the popularity of this model, the prices have already reached levels that are far higher than the recommended retail price (approx 8900 EUR depending on your location). With that said, we can’t predict the future for how the popularity of this watch will shift in the future. Will it become more sought-after? Or will people favor the new 126610LV which Rolex released? Only time will tell, but it seems, at least right now, as if this watch isn’t getting any less popular anytime soon.

Rolex Submariner 1266610LV takes over

To continue on the green theme, we have the new Rolex Submariner 126610LV. The biggest difference is that it has a black dial as opposed to a green sunburst. In addition, the case has been made 41mm and is powered by the new Rolex caliber 3235. The watch still features the iconic green ceramic bezel, but to balance out the size, the lugs have been made slightly slimmer.

The post NEWS! Rolex Submariner 116610LV Hulk Discontinued! appeared first on Millenary Watches.

The weight of a watch can play a big role in how a watch wears on the wrist. A heavy watch will sit more robust and have a greater presence on the wrist whilst lighter watches can feel smaller.

The Rolex Submariner is one of the most iconic watches in the world, but how much does it weigh?

Well, to begin with, Rolex has released a number of different iterations of the Submariner over the years. Firstly, there are different generations of the Submariners, but then there are also Submariners made in different materials, notably stainless steel, two-tone, and full gold. These things affect how much the watch weighs.

In addition to this, what also affects how much a watch weighs depends on how many links are fitted on the bracelet. Depending on if the bracelet has been sized (links removed) or not, it will affect how much it weighs.

We constantly receive questions about how much different watches weigh, particularly Rolex, and interestingly enough, there is limited information about this. And the weight of the watches is not something that Rolex lists in their product information.

With that said, in this article, we are listing the weight of some of the most popular Rolex Submariner watches, but please keep in mind that the weights can vary slightly depending on how many links are fitted on the bracelet.

Rolex Submariner weight

• Rolex Submariner 5513: 119 grams
• Rolex Submariner 16610: 135 grams (including all links)
• Rolex Submariner 14060M: 124 grams (with 11 links)
• Rolex Submariner 16618: 175 grams
• Rolex Submariner 16613: 150 (with gold on the clasp and solid end links)
• Rolex Submariner 116610LV: 160 grams
• Rolex Submariner 116610LN: 160 grams
• Rolex Submariner 114060: 152.9 grams. (2 links removed)
• Rolex Submariner 116613LB: 172 grams (all links)
• Rolex Submariner 116613LN: 172 grams (all links)
• Rolex Submariner 116618LN: 296 grams
• Rolex Submariner 116618LB: 296 grams
• Rolex Submariner 116619: 229 grams

The post How Much Does the Rolex Submariner Weigh? appeared first on Millenary Watches.

The Rolex Submariner is one of the most iconic watches today.

But how did it come to get the legendary and iconic status that it has today? Let’s dive into the history of the Rolex Submariner and what has made it one of the most recognized and iconic watches ever made.

Timeless and iconic design

The answer is rather complex because when the Submariner was released, it wasn’t an iconic watch. It was just… another watch. Of course with a great design and great function, but it didn’t have a legendary status from day one. The Submariner first had to prove himself worthy of such status.

When most people think about a luxury sports watch, they think about the Rolex Submariner. This fact alone has made the Submariner the first watch to come to mind, and naturally the first watch to consider when they are looking to buy a luxury dive watch. This, of course, contributes to its increased popularity and its strengthened legendary status.

What has contributed to the legendary status of the Submariner is that when it was released, its design was unique and new, and following this, the Submariner design has become the definition of a diver’s watch. With that said, many watch brands have followed suit and taken inspiration from the Submariner design. But there is only one original. As such, regardless if you buy a homage or a watch with Submariner-like design features, most people will still peak at the Submariner, and aspire to own it, as it is the end-all-be-all.

The Submariner wasn’t the first dive watch, but it was one of the first. And it eventually became the dive watch.

Touching on the subject of a timeless design, the overall design of the iconic Rolex Submariner has changed very little since it was released – although revised and upgraded many times since. The latest design iteration of the Submariner still remains relevant and modern until this very day, despite the fact that its overall design is very similar to the original. This goes to show that the Submariner design is truly timeless and will likely never go out of style.

Each Submariner reference – from the first to the latest – is loved and appreciated by collectors – regardless if it is 50 or 5 years old. Of course some more than others. Having said that, there are not a lot of watches that are able to remain just as relevant and contemporary today as when it was originally released.

History and ethos

The history, ethos, and what the Submariner stands for is an important parts of the Submariner’s iconic status and popularity.

The first Rolex Submariner was released in 1953, and the model is still in production seven decades later. There are not a lot of watches that have been in consistent production for so long, and this has allowed the Submariner to build its image, and be a part of a whole lot over the years.

One of the most important parts of the Submariner’s history – at least from a standpoint of marketing – is that the Submariner has been worn by James Bond 007 in several movies. Before Omega became the official watch of James Bond, Rolex had a great partnership with the movie franchise. And what better watch suited for James Bond than the Submariner? The Rolex Submariner has made an appearance in eleven Bond films. In Ian Flemming’s novels, Rolex was also the watch of choice.

Sean Connery wore a Submariner in the first Bond movie Dr. No from 1962, as well as in From Russia With Love, Goldfinger, and Thunderball.

The Submariner’s association with James Bond further gave the watch prestige, and masculinity, and boosted its legendary status. This is especially considering the fact that in particular at the time, there weren’t many people who were considered cooler than James Bond, and Sean Connery, who wore a Submariner.

As an anecdote, James Bond, played by Roger Moore in the 1973 Live and Let Die movie, is tied up and left to die with a platform that is descended into a pit of sharks by the villain Kananga. But in true Bond fashion, he activates a button on his watch – a Rolex Submariner – which operates as a saw via the rotating bezel, and he is able to cut himself free. Thus saving his and his lady Solitaire’s life.

Then we have Rolex’s connection with the French COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises), which is a company specializing in engineering and deep diving operation. For a long time, Rolex and COMEX had close cooperation where Rolex developed and supplied Submariner watches to the organization.

The company is known for its underwater exploration at great depths, and the use of Rolex Submariner was a perfect testament to Rolex that their watches endured and performed exceptionally well for even the most professional divers. After all, that is what the watch was intended for. And whilst most people won’t take advantage of the true durability and water resistance of a Submariner, it’s a label of prestige and durability that has contributed to the Submariner’s established popularity and status. 

Simplicity and versatility

Originally, the Submariner was a dive watch made for professional divers, diving deep down the oceans. But today, the closest to water most Submariners come is when the owner washes their hands.

The Submariner has gone from a professional tool watch to a luxury sports watch, and inevitably – considering its iconic reputation, price, and legendary status – a status symbol.

In terms of design, the Submariner is clean and classic, and despite being a dive watch, it has been proven many times that it looks just as good with a smoking as with a diving suit. It is said that perfection is met when there is nothing left to omit, and this certainly is the case for the Submariner. It’s clean, it’s elegant, and it is surprisingly versatile. If you are looking for an ”only watch” to wear every day regardless of the occasion and outfit, the Submariner is the one.

And for those who believe that the day window and cyclops are elements that should be omitted, it’s great news that Rolex also offers a no-date variant of the Submariner in modern times – the 114060. Additionally, many vintage examples such as the references 5512, 14060, and the 5513 are available without a date as well.

What is so impressive about the Submariner is that it can handle the harshest and most demanding conditions, but also looks great in the least demanding conditions such as at an evening dinner.

Today, the Submariner is available in a number of different colors and metal types, including full gold variants. This means that there is a Submariner for everyone. But if you ask any collector, they will say that a stainless steel Rolex Submariner should be part of any enthusiast’s collection.

Quality

With the many iterations over the years, the Submariner has only gotten better and better in terms of quality. The overall design of the watch has not changed much, but the built quality and longevity of the watch surely has. Originally, the Submariner was made in 316L stainless steel – an industry standard.

The issue with this steel is that despite the fact that it is stainless, over the course of the decades, it can tarnish and ultimately rust and corrode. To battle this issue, and to make the watches last perpetually, Rolex introduced 904L stainless steel. This steel is anti-corrosive and does not rust.

Rolex has also introduced a number of other improvements to the Submariner that both relate to performance as well as long-term quality. The Submariner has used many different calibers throughout the years, but the latest movements are naturally the most durable and reliable of them all.

This movement incorporates effective technical innovations such as Paraflex shock absorbers and a Parachrom blue hairspring that improves the watch’s resistance against magnetic fields, which may otherwise interfere with the watch’s precision and accuracy. The movement is a workhorse that has proven unlikely to fail and to be able to operate effortlessly for years and years to come.

You cannot argue that the modern Submariner is a watch of quality. It is made to perfection with extreme precision and quality control, it can operate for decades without a service (although it is recommended to service the movement at the very least every 10 years), and it is robust and solid without any rattle. The perfect size which has been updated over the years makes it a watch for any wrist size. The Submariner is like a car that you turn on and you know that it will never let you down.

So why is the Rolex Submariner so popular? What is it that has made the Submariner so iconic and legendary today? The answer, is, as discussed above, not dependent on one single factor. But one thing is certain – there are still clear similarities between the Submariner from 1953 and the modern Submariner watches currently in production. And with that in mind, it is a truly timeless design that will never go out of style. The Submariner has truly made a mark on watch history. It is a legend.

The post Why is the Rolex Submariner so Popular? appeared first on Millenary Watches.

The Rolex Submariner is probably the most iconic watch in the world. It has become the watch that is the definition of a diver’s watch, yet the majority of Submariner owners will never even swim with it.

If you are thinking about buying a Rolex Submariner but are unsure of the size and how it sits on the wrist, we hope this guide can help you.

The fact of the matter is that when it comes to watches, the dimensions of a timepiece on paper may be completely different from how it is perceived on the wrist.

There are watches that are, on paper, 40mm in diameter but feels like a 45mm. At the same time, there are watches that are 44mm that feel like 39mm.

So how does the Rolex Submariner sit on the wrist?

Rolex Submariner size and dimensions reference 116610

As you know, there are a number of different variations and iterations of the Submariner. The same generation Submariners use the same case and thus have the same size, but every now and then, Rolex has updated the Submariner and given it a new case design. Here we are going to focus on the Submariner ceramic and the non-ceramic previous generation, which are available both in gold, bi-color, and steel. When determining the size of a watch, the dimension you primarily look at is the diameter.

The Rolex Submariner ceramic reference 116610 has the following dimensions:

• Diameter: 40mm
• Lug to lug: 47.2 mm
• Lug width: 20mm
• Thickness: 12.7mm

The number one feedback people have about the Submariner ceramic is that it wears larger than 40mm. The mass of the crown guards is also vastly increased in the ceramic Submariner.

What is interesting is that the previous generation Submariner reference 16610 is also 40mm in diameter, yet still, the two watches wear completely different. They also have the same thickness.

The biggest difference between the previous generation Submariner and the Submariner ceramic is that the latter has a so-called maxi-case. This primarily means broader lugs and larger crown guards. Overall a bulkier and sportier case. So whilst on paper, they are very similar, they will wear very differently.

Rolex Submariner size and dimensions reference 16610

• Diameter: 40mm
• Lug to lug: 46.7 mm
• Lug width: 20mm
• Thickness: 12.7mm

Below we share some wrist shots of the Rolex Submariner to demonstrate how the Rolex Submariner sits on the wrist. Both the 116610 and the 16610.

Rolex Submariner on the wrist

With the above mentioned above, knowing how a watch sits on the wrist by only looking at the dimensions on paper can be difficult. This is because there are more factors that affect how a watch wears than what is usually specified and measured. This also includes things like the dial size and the bracelet. Below we share some wrist shots of the Submariner to hopefully help you get a sense of how it wears.

Photo: @Bjoerlin76

The post Rolex Submariner on wrist and Size Guide appeared first on Millenary Watches.

What movements does the Rolex Submariner use?

Which movements have the Submariners used over the years?

Over the years, Rolex has released a number of different Submariner references. The main purpose of this is to release improved and revised models that offer improved legibility, improved reliability, and better design. Seeing that the Submariner was first released in the 1950s, Rolex has had some time to reiterate the model and consistently improve it.

One such improvement is the consistent change of the movement of the Submariner to allow for better reliability, better performance, and improved reliability. Below you can find each Rolex Submariner steel reference and the movement they have used.

• Submariner 6204: Rolex caliber A260.

• Submariner 6200: Rolex caliber A296/775.

• Submariner 6205: Rolex caliber A260 9 3/4″

• Submariner6538: Rolex caliber 1030.

• Submariner 5508: Rolex caliber 1530

• Submariner 5510: Rolex caliber 1530.

• Submariner 5512: Rolex caliber 1530 and caliber 1560 (can be seen when the four lines entered the dial) “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified”

• Submariner 5513: Rolex caliber 1530 and 1520.

• Submariner 5514:Rolex caliber 1520

• Submariner 1680: Rolex caliber 1570

• Submariner  16800: Rolex caliber 3035

• Submariner 168000: Rolex caliber 3035

• Rolex Submariner no-date 14060: Rolex caliber 3000

• Rolex Submariner date 16610: Rolex caliber 3135

• Rolex Submariner no-date 14060M: Rolex caliber 3130

• Rolex Submariner Date 116610: Rolex caliber 3135

• Rolex Submariner no-date 114060: Rolex caliber 3130

• Rolex Submariner Date 126610LN: Rolex caliber 3235

• Rolex Submariner no-date 124060: Rolex caliber 3230

Do you have any other questions regarding Rolex Submariner movements? Leave a comment below!

The post Rolex Submariner Movements (calibers) Complete Guide appeared first on Millenary Watches.